UC-NRLF. 


RECENT  PRACTICE 

SANITARY  DRAINAGE 

OF  BUILDINGS, 

MEMORANDA  ON  THE  COST  OF  PLUMBING  WORK 
BY  WM.  PAUL  GERHARD,  C.  E., 

'.-•nlting  Engineer  for  Sanitary  'frorfrx. 
(New    York    City.) 


SECOND  EDITION,  REVISED  AND  ENLARGED, 


NEW  YOr-   ; 

D.  VAN  NOSTRAND  COMPANY, 

"3  MURRAY  AND  2?  WARREN  STS» 

189  0 . 


THE  VAN   NOSTKANU  M/lUIM^Jl  r     n 
16mo.  Boards.     Price  60  Centi  Eaeh. 
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No.  «.- 

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No.  : 

BRA. 

Second  American  edition. 

NO.  18 -SEWERAGE    AND    SEWAGE   PURIFICATION.     By 

M.  N.  Baker,  Associate  Editor  "  Engineering  News.' 


No.  19.— STRENGTH  OF  BEAMS  UNDER  TRANSVERSB 
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No.  20.— BRIDGE  AND  TUNNEL  CENTRES.  By  John  B. 
McMaster,  C.E.  Second  editio^. 

Ho,  M.-SAFETY  VALVES:  Second  Edition.  By  Richard 
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M.  Am.  Soc.  C.  E. 

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STRAINS.  With  various  Tables  of  Results  and 
Experiments.  From  the  German  of  Prof.  Ludwig 
Spangenburgh,  with  a  Preface  by  S.  H.  Shreve, 
A.M. 

No.  S4.-A  PRACTICAL  TREATISE  ON  THE  TEETH  OP 
WHEELS.  By  Prof.  S.  W.  Robinson.  Second 
edition,  revised. 

No.  25.— ON  THE  THEORY  AND  CALCULATION  OF  CON- 
TINUOUS BRIDGES.  By  R.  M.  Wilcox,  Ph.  D. 

Lo.  26.— PRACTICAL  TREATISE  ON  THE  PROPERTIES 

OF     CONTINUOUS     BRIDGES.      By    Charles 

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of  M.  Leon  Pochet. 
No.  30.— TERRESTRIAL  MAGNETISM  AND  THE    MAG* 

NETISM  OF  IRON  VESSELS.    By  Prof,  Fair- 

man  Rogers. 
No.  31.— THE  SANITARY   CONDITION   OF*  DWELLING-  , 

HOUSES    IN    TOWN     AND    COUNTRY.     By  | 

George  E.  Waring,  jun, 
No.  82.-CABLE-MAKING   FOR  SUSPENSION  BRIDGE& 

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Rafter,  C.E.     New  and  Revised  Edition. 
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Second  edition.    Translated  from  the 'French. 
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M.A.    Second  American  edition. 
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METHODS,    AND    RESULTS.     By    Frank   De 

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By  Prof.  William  Cain,  A.M.,  C.E. 

New  and  revised  edition. 


SC1FJTCK  &&RO88. 


No.  ».—  A   HANDBOOK  OF  THE   ELECTRO-MAGNETIC 
TELEGRAPH.    By  A.  E.  Loring. 

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C.  E.,  Assoc.  Editor,  Engineering  News.     Second  Ed. 

No.  42.—  THEORY  OF  STEEL-CONCRETE  ARCHES,  ANT)  OF 
VAULTED  STRUCTURES.    By  Prof.  William  Cain. 

No,  48.—  WAVE  AND  VORTEX  MOTION.    By  Dr.  ThomAi 

Craig,  of  Johns  Hopkins  University. 
No.  44.—  TURBINE  WHEELS.    By  Prof.  W.  P.  Trowbridge, 

Columbia  College.    Second  edition.   Revised. 
No.  46.—  THERMODYNAMICS.    By  Prof.  H.  T.  Eddy,  Uni- 

versity  of  Cincinnati. 
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M.  Le  Doux.    Revised  by  Prof.  Denton. 
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USES  OF  ARTICULATED  LINKS.    By  J.  D.  C. 

de  Roos. 
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USED.    Fifth  edition. 
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No.  56.-THE  ACTUAL  LATERAL  PRESSURE  OF  EARTH- 

WORK.   By  Benjamin  Baker,  M.  Inst.  C.E. 
*••  67.-INCANDESCENT     ELECTRIC     LIGHTING,       A 

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Field,  and  the  Maximum  Efficiency  of  Incandes- 

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RECENT  PKACTICE  IN  THE  SANITAKY  DRAINAGE  OF 
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SANITATION  IN  WORKINGMEN'S  HOMES,  IN  FAC- 
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RECENT   PRACTICE 

IN  THE 

S/NITARY  DRAINAGE 

OF    BUILDINGS, 

WITH 

MEMORANDA  ON  THE  COST  OF  PLUMBING  WORK. 


BY  WM.  PAUL  GERHARD,  C.  E, 

Consulting  Engineer  for  Sanitary  Works. 
(New  York  City.) 


SECOND   EDITION,   KEVISED  AND  ENLABGED. 


NEW  YORK: 

D.  VAN  NOSTKAND   CO., 
No.  23  MURRAY  AND  27  WARREN  STREETS. 

1890. 


Copyright,  1890, 
D.  VAN  NOSTBAND  COMPANY. 


PREFACE. 


A  great  philosopher  once  said  that  "  the 
fault  of  most  books  is  their  being  too  long." 
The  author's  aim  has  been  to  avoid  this 
fault,  by  stating  in  plain  language,  as 
briefly  as  possible,  what  constitute  the 
leading  requirements  of  sanitary  drainage 
as  applied  to  buildings.  The  first  and 
third  parts  (the  Second,  third  and  sixth  in 
the  new  edition)  of  this  little  "book  deal 
with  the  general  principles  of  house  drain- 
age, while  the  second  part  (the  fourth  in 
the  new  edition)  discusses  in  detail  the  re- 
quirements as  to  material,  workmanship 
and  arrangement  of  sanitary  plumbing. 
These,  it  is  believed,  will  be  found  par- 
ticularly useful  by  architects  and  engi- 
neers in  preparing  complete  plumbing 
specifications  for  all  classes  of  buiMings. 
The  fourth  part,  (the  fifth  part  in  the  new 
edition)  giving  memoranda  on  the  cost  of 
plumbing  work,  will,  it  is  hoped,  be  found 
by  many  to  be  a  welcome  addition. 

226181 


IV 

It  is  suggested  that  those  who  desire  to 
obtain  a  complete  knowledge  of  this  im- 
portant branch  of  interior  house  construc- 
tion should  read,  in  connection  herewith, 
the  author's  former  works,  which  this  vol- 
ume is  merely  intended  to  supplement. 

THE  AUTHOR. 
39  UNION  SQUARE,  WEST, 

YORK  CITY,  May  1,  1887. 


PREFACE  TO  SECOND  EDITION. 

The  new  edition  of  this  book  has  been 
thoroughly  revised  and  enlarged  by  the  ad- 
dition of  two  essays,  one  on  "Architecture 
and  Sanitation"  the  other  on  "The 
Drainage  of  a  House" 

WM.  PAUL  GERHARD. 
39  UNION  SQUARE,  WEST, 

YORK  CITY,  Sept,  1st,  1890. 


CONTENTS. 


Page. 
I.     ARCHITECTURE  AND  SANITATION 9 

IL     KECENT  PROGRESS  IN  HOUSE    DRAINAGE 

AND  PLUMBING 21 

III.  THE  DRAINAGE  OF  A  HOUSE 59 

IV.  MAXIMS  OP  PLUMBING  AND  HOUSE  DRAIN- 

AGE   89 

A.  Rules  regarding  the  Placing  and  Lo- 
cation of  Plumbing  Work   in  Dwel- 
lings   94 

B.  Rules  regarding  the  Proper  Construc- 
tion of  the  Work 98 

1.  General  Conditions 99 

2.  Materials 102 

3.  Workmanship 115 

4.  General  Arrangement  of  Plumb- 

ing Work 127 


VI 

Page. 

5.     Tests  of  the   Work  during   Con- 
struction and  after  Completion. ...  143 

O.    Rules  regarding  the  Proper  Care  and 
Management  of  Plumbing  Apparatus .  145 

V.     MEMORANDA  ON  THE  COST  OF  PLUMBING 

WORK 153 

VI.     SUGGESTIONS  FOR  A  SANITARY  CODE 163 

A.  Kules  as  to    Healthful    Building 
Construction... 163 

B.  Rules  as  to  Connection  between 
House  Drains  and  Street  Sewers...  1(55 

C.  Plumbing  Eegulations 1 69 


I. 

ARCHITECTURE 


AND 


SANITATION. 


ARCHITECTURE  AND  SANITATION, 


Every  architectural  structure,  to  be 
worthy  of  the  name,  should  fulfill  the 
following  cardinal  requirements :  It  should 
be  truthful  in  expression  and  style, 
beautiful  in  design  and  form,  and  health- 
ful, durable,  convenient  and  practical  in 
construction  and  arrangement. 

A  building  should  be  truthful  in  char- 
acter, not  merely  as  regards  the  fitness  of 
all  interior  arrangements  for  the  purposes 
to  which  it  is  to  be  devoted,  but  its  ex- 
terior should  at  once  distinctly  characterize 
its  object  and  purpose.  True  art,  further, 
demands  truthfulness  in  construction  and 
in  the  relation  between  the  interior  and  the 
exterior  of  the  building,  as  well  as  in  the 
choice  and  employment  of  such  building 
materials  as  are  best  adapted  to  the  various 
parts  that  make  up  the  structure. 

Next  in  importance  to  truthfulness  is  the 
requirement  of  harmony  and  order,  not  al- 
ways the  mere  symmetry  of  arrangement, 


10  >•• 

•  *•*••*•    »  ••  '      •    • 

but  a  general  beauty  of  design  as  expressed 
by  the  peculiar  characteristics  of  the  build- 
ing materials  selected,  by  the  architectural 
order,  by  the  harmony  between  the  details, 
between  the  parts  and  the  whole  ;  in  other 
words,  by  the  proportions  chosen  between 
length,  width  and  height  of  the  structure, 
between  the  solid  walls  and  the  openings 
for  doors  and  windows,  and  other  details. 

The  foregoing  are  what  we  may  term 
ideal  requirements  in  distinction  to  the 
mere  practical  ones.  According  to  the 
character  and  purpose  of  a  structure,  either 
the  artistical  or  the  practical  requirements 
will  predominate,  but  an  architect,  to  be 
successful,  must  be  familiar  with  both  the 
aesthetic  and  the  constructive  principles 
which  should  guide  in  the  conception,  plan- 
ning and  designing  of  buildings  ;  he  must 
be  not  only  an  artist,  but  a  constructor  as 
well. 

To  be  skilful  as  a  constructor  he  must 
have  a  thorough  knowledge  of  all  building 
materials,  of  the  strength  and  stability  of 
structures,  of  the  different  methods  and 
systems  of  construction,  and  of  the  practi- 


11 

cal  work  performed  by  the  various  building 
trades.  He  must  have  a  large  and  varied 
experience  derived  from  a  personal  super- 
intendence of  buildings  of  different  charac- 
ter, design  and  construction.  Last,  though 
not  least,  he  should  be  familiar  with  the 
means  available  to  protect  a  structure 
against  the  hurtful  influences  of  the  ele- 
ments, and  with  the  best  methods  obtain- 
able for  rendering  a  building  healthful, 
for  no  building  which  is  to  be  the  abode 
of  human  beings,  or  even  animals,  however 
practical  and  convenient  in  arrangement, 
and  however  beautiful  in  design  and  orna- 
mentation it  may  be,  can  be  considered  per- 
feet,  unless  it  is  entirely  free  from  any 
influence  which  may,  directly  or  indirectly, 
injuriously  affect  the  health  of  its  inmates. 
It  matters  little  whether  or  not  the  origin 
or  spread  of  certain  diseases  can  be  proven 
to  be  due  to  unsanitary  conditions  or  sur- 
roundings. Of  the  exact  mode  in  whioh 
filth  acts  upon  the  human  system  we  know 
as  yet  very  little.  What  we  do  know, 
however,  with  a  tolerable  degree  of  cer- 
tainty, is  that  much  sickness,  suffering  and 


12 


premature  death  may  be  prevented  by  the 
removal  of  all  influences  injurious  to  health. 

To  find  the  above  outlined  requirements 
of  artistic  genius,  scientific  knowledge  and 
practical  skill  and  ability  combined  in  the 
person  of  one  man  is  rare  indeed,  for  in 
architecture,  as  elsewhere,  novel  problems 
constantly  arise,  increased  civilization  and 
luxurious  modes  of  living  continue  to 
create  new  wants,  and  the  whole  subject  is 
growing  to  such  a  vast  extent  that  it  can 
hardly  be  thoroughly  mastered  by  a  single  . 
person,  even  in  a  lifetime.  It  would, 
therefore,  seem  possible,  and,  indeed,  it  has 
been  done  in  many  cases,  to  effect  a  divi- 
sion of  labor. 

Comparatively  few  in  number  are  those 
structures  where  the  artistic  requirements, 
the  ornamentation (  and  decoration  pre- 
dominate. Much  more  numerous  are 
buildings  where  the  practical  requirements, 
of  the  design — sometimes,  indeed,  the  ne- 
cessity of  the  utmost  economy  in  construc- 
tion— demand  the  entire  ignoring  of  all 
merely  decorative  features.  It  is  not  nec- 
essary to  quote  examples,  for  instances  of 


13 

either  class  of  buildings  will  easily  recur 
to  the  reader's  mind.  The  majority,  how- 
ever, of  all  architectural  structures,  no 
matter  what  the  object  may  be  to  which 
they  are  devoted,  require  the  equally  strict 
observation  of  both  ideal  and  practical  re- 
quirements, and  we  venture  to  say  that  the 
best  results  will  often  be  attained  by  a 
combination  of  the  highest  talents  both  in 
design  and  in  construction. 

Whether  a  building  is  intended  as  a 
transient  or  permanent  domicile  for  man- 
kind, its  perfect  salubriousness  is  certainly 
equal  in  importance  to  the  requirement  of 
suitable  design  and  arrangement,  and  of 
durable  and  sound  construction.  The 
protection  of  a  structure  against  the  in- 
fluence of  the  climate  and  seasons,  of  heat 
and  cold,  against  wind  and  rain,  against 
fire  and  lightning,  against  dampness  or 
dangerous  exhalations  from  the  soil,  right- 
fully demands  a  profound  regard  and  the 
most  careful  consideration,  and  to  this 
should  be  added  the  necessity  of  provid- 
ing suitable  arrangements  to  supply  build- 
ings with  light  and  air,  water  and  heat, 


,    14 

and  to  remove  from  them  the  many  waste 
products  incident  to  human  life.  -All  the 
latter  exigencies  are  eminently  of  a  utili- 
tarian character,  and  have  not  always, 
hitherto,  received  the  attention  due  them. 
This  may  be  partly  explained  by  the  fact 
that  researches  and  investigations  relating 
to  practical  sanitation  have  only  recently 
been  undertaken.  It  is  pre-eminently  due, 
however,  to  the  almost  universal  indiffer- 
ence toward  the  subject,  and  to  the  hereto- 
fore existing  demand  of  the  public  for 
either  handsome  buildings  or  very  cheap 
houses. 

We  have,  in  the  past  few  years,  witnessed 
a  remarkable  change  in  this  respect, 
and  the  once  indifferent  public,  having 
become  aware  of  the  danger  to  health 
arising  from,  and  the  many  diseases  caused 
by,  living  in  unhealthy  houses,  begins  to 
appreciate  the  importance  of  the  question, 
and  architects,  in  their  turn  are  obliged 
to  pay  more  attention  to  the  subject. 

Owing,  probably,  to  the  purely  practical 
aspects  of  the  question,  the  latter  has  be- 
come the  special  province  of  the  sanitary 


15 

engineer,  whose  energy  is  devoted  to  the 
contriving  of  the  best  means  for  preventing 
a  pollution  of  the  soil,  the  air,  or  the  water 
about  habitations,  and  who,  wherever 
habitations  are  closely  grouped  together, 
as  in  villages,  towns  and  large  cities,  de- 
vises and  carries  out  schemes  of  drainage, 
water-supply  and  sewerage.-  It  is  but  nat- 
ural that,  having  provided  means  for  the 
establishment  of  healthful  conditions  about 
buildings,  he  should  go  a  step  further  and 
devote  close  study  and  attention  to  the 
securing  of  healthful  conditions  inside  of 
habitations.  These,  indeed,  are  of  even 
greater  moment  to  the  individual,  for  of 
the  two  evils,  a  healthy  home  amidst  un- 
healthy or  an  unsanitary  home  in  health- 
ful surroundings,  the  latter  is  obviously 
the  one  capable  of  working  more  direct 
harm. 

We  thus  find  that  the  essential,  though 
to  many  uninteresting,  details  of  water- 
supply,  house  drainage,  plumbing,  heating, 
ventilation  and  lighting,  and  healthy 
foundations,  have  of  late  become  the  par- 
ticular sphere  of  the  sanitary  engineer. 


16 


That  this  should  be  so  is  not,  however 
surprising,  if  we  remember  what  was  pre- 
viously asserted  about  the  magnitude  of 
the  subject  with  which  architects  have  to 
deal.  We  do  not  wish  to  be  understood 
as  meaning  that  an  architect  should  not 
devote  attention  to  questions  relating  to 
healthful  house-construction.  But,  we  hold 
the  opinion  that,  at  least  in  the  case  of  im- 
portant structures,  the  architect  should  call 
in  the  aid  of  the  sanitary  engineer,  par- 
ticularly so  because  the  problems  of  ex- 
ternal and  internal  water-supply  and 
sewerage  are  often  so  correlated  and  closely 
allied  to  each  other  that  they  cannot  well 
be  treated  separately.  In  the  construction 
of  large  buildings,  and  particularly  where- 
ever  healthfulness  is  a  prime  consideration, 
it  has  become  quite  a  common  practice 
with  architects  in  Europe  to  associate  with 
themselves  a  sanitary  engineer.  The  same 
practice  is  spreading  in  this  country,  and  the 
writer  has  had  the  honor  of  having  been  as- 
sociated in  the  past  years  with  many  of  the 
most  prominent  architectual  firms  in  this 
country,  on  large  as  well  as  small  structures. 


17 

By  such  a  division  of  labor,  or  such  a 
combination  of  genius,  talent  and  skill,  it 
would  seem  to  be  easy  to  secure  to  a  struc- 
ture at  once  the  best  artistic,  constructive 
and  sanitary  features. 

Since  the  above  paragraphs  were  penned 
the  author's  views  have  been  corroborated 
by  many  architects  of  the  highest  stand- 
ing. Quite  recently  Mr.  Burnham,  of  the 
eminent  firm  of  Burnham  &  Root,  Archi- 
tects, in  Chicago,  made  some  remarks  upon 
the  practice  of  architecture  before  the 
Chicago  Architectural  Sketch  Club,  which 
so  fully  endorse  the  views  held  by  me 
that  I  make  no  apology  for  quoting  por- 
tions from  the  June,  1890,  issue  of  the 
Chicago  Inland  Architect : 

"  Buildings  are  now  supplied  with  complex 
heating,  plumbing,  sewerage,  ventilation,  ele- 
vators, pumps,  tanks,  engines,  dynamos  and 
electric  lighting.  Many  have  costly  plants  of  all 
these  kinds,  none  are  without  a  part.  The  owners 
have  a  right  to  expect  the  very  best  of  everything 
in  every  part,  and  perfect  mechanical  planning  and 
application  in  each  case.  Therefore,  very  expert 
mechanical  and  sanitary  engineering  are  required 
to  handle  this  part  of  the  work. 


18 


' '  If  many  important  works  be  on  hand  in  an 
office  at  once,  the  mere  handling  of  t!ie  business 
they  produce  requires  much  experience,  and  is 
enough  to  occupy  the  time  of  an  able  man. 

"Passing  over  many  other  strong  points  that 
might  be  instanced,  I  have  shown  enough  i  o  prove 
tha  one  man  cannot  himself  attend  to  all  the  work 
of  a  modern  city  practice  in  America,  and  as  we 
agree  that  attention  to  details  is  necessary  to  success, 
it  is  plain  that  some  method  must  be  found  to  attain 
it,  other  than  through  a  wider  practice  by  a  single 
person  in  the  old  way. 

"  It  is  manifest  that  the  successful  practitioner  of 
the  future  will  be  a  specialist,  or  at  the  head  of  an 
organization  of  specialists.  *  *  *  * 

' i  To  design  and  construct  a  great  office  building, 
some  stores  and  flats,  some  dwellings,  some 
factories,  a  church,  etc.,  'in  a  manner  to  elicit 
praise  from  our  critical  building  public,  is  beyond 
the  powers  of  one  man's  brain  and  energy,  if  he 
attend  to  the  details  of  all.  If,  therefore,  a  man 
or  a  firm  is  ambitious  to  carry  on  a  great  general 
practice,  there  must  be  in  the  organization 
a  very  great  designer,  an  exceptionally  strong 
chief  engineer,  a  sanitary  engineer,  a  mechanical 
engineer,  and  a  business  man  Each  of  these  will 
have  his  hands  full  if  he  is  faithful,  and  only  with 
such  an  organization,  I  say  again,  can  a  large 
general  practice  live  and  keep  going." 


II. 

RECENT  PROGRESS 


IN 


H.OUSE  DRAINAGE 


AND 


PLUMBING. 


RECENT   PROGRESS 

IN 

HOUSE  DRAINAGE  AND  PLUMBING,  * 


Among  the  many  practical  and  utilita- 
rian details  of  interior  construction  tend- 
ing to  increase  the  comfort  and  convenient 
arrangement  of  houses,  none  occupy  a 
more  important  position  than  those  relat- 
ing to  the  fixtures,  traps  and  pipes  which 
introduce  and  distribute  into  our  buildings 
a  supply  of  pure  water  for  household  use, 
and  afterward  remove  from  them  the 
liquid  and  semi-fluid  foul  wastes,  desig- 
nated by  the  general  term  house  sewage. 

Our  modern  homes  present,  in  the  vast 
number  of  pipes  of  all  sizes,  kinds  and 
character  which  traverse  them  in  all*  direc- 
tions, not  only  across  the  basement  or 
cellar,  but  also  from  cellar  to  garret,  an 

*  This  paper  was  originally  prepared  for,  and  appeared 
in,  the  Chicago  Inland  Architect. 


22 


appearance  quite  different  from  the  houses 
built  by  our  ancestors  a  century  or  more 
ago.  A  modern  residence  fairly  abounds 
with  pipes  for  the  conveyance  and  distri- 
bution of  illuminating  gas  into  rooms  and 
halls;  with  hot  and  cold  water  pipes;  with 
pipes  for  heating  purposes,  carrying  steam 
from  boilers,  or  returning  to  them  con- 
densed water;  with  channels  or  conduits 
carrying  fresh  air  into  the  cellar,  to  the 
heating  apparatus,  or  directly  into  living 
or  sleeping  rooms ;  with  flues  and  registers 
for  the  admission  of  pure,  warm  air,  venti- 
lating flues  for  the  removal  of  vitiated  air, 
and  chimneys  for  carrying  off  smoke  from 
the  combustion  of  fuel ;  with  speaking 
tubes,  telephone  wires,  tubes  enclosing 
wires  for  electric  bells  and  for  electric 
lighting;  and  finally  with  waste  and  vent, 
soil  and  drain  pipes  for  the  removal  of 
household  wastes  through  plumbing  appli- 
ances, which  are  more  or  less  scattered  in 
all  directions  over  the  principal  floors  of 
the  house. 

These  are  what  the  tempting  language 
of  the  advertisements  of  shrewd  real  estate 


23 

agents  or  speculative  builders  comprise 
under  the  term  " modern  improvements" 
and  the  minds  of  American  householders 
have  been  accustomed  to  the  latter  to  such 
an  extent  that  even  small  houses  rarely 
remain  without  some  of  the  above  named 
comfort-promoting  arrangements;  and  that 
a  much  higher  price  is  willingly  paid  for 
the  purchase  or  lease  of  a  building  well 
provided  with  them.  Of  course,  with  light- 
ing and  heating  apparatus  of  all  sorts  and 
kinds  in  a  house,  requiring  intelligent  care 
and  frequent  inspection,  but  generally  left 
to  be  manipulated  by  ordinary  servants, 
and  with  the  still  prevalent  custom  of 
having  much  of  the  work  concealed,  partly 
or  wholly,  in  walls,  partitions  or  between 
floor-beams,  repairs  are  apt  to  be  numerous, 
disagreeable  and  costly;  and  to  avoid 
them,  even  in  the  early  days  of  the  intro- 
duction of  such  improvements,  architects, 
builders  and  owners  rarely  failed  to  specify 
certain  requirements,  or  neglected  to  make 
use  of  certain  tests,  to  assure  themselves 
that  the  pipes  intended  to  convey  water, 
steam,  hot  air,  fire  and  smoke,  and  illumin- 


24 


ating  gas,  were  tightly  jointed,  so  as  to 
prevent  the  unwelcome  or  unwholesome  es- 
cape of  any  of  their  contents  into  the  house. 

But  with  sewer  pipes,  soil  and  vent 
pipes,  fixtures  and  traps,  the  usual  practice 
has  been  different.  The  requirements  in 
the  majority  of  instances  were  less  strin- 
gent, the  danger  arising  from  defective 
work  was  disregarded  or  overlooked 
through  ignorance,  indifference  and  folly, 
and  the  owner  was  usually  less  inclined  to 
spend  a  sufficient  amount  of  money  for  such 
work,  except  so  far,  perhaps,  as  the  desire 
went  to  make  a  handsome  display  of  richly 
decorated  bowls,  plated  or  gilt  faucets,  and 
elaborate  ornamental  woodwork,  corres- 
ponding in  style  and  elegance  to  the 
artistic  decoration  and  interior  finish  of 
the  rooms  and  richly  adorned  outside  of 
the  building.  It  was  idle,  in  those  days,  to 
attempt  to  speak  to  the  builders  of  a  sani- 
tary arrangement  of  plumbing  work. 
Architects,  consequently,  paid  less  atten- 
tion to  the  subject  than  it  rightfully  de- 
manded. 

But    the    world  moves,  and,    although 


25 


progress  in  the  art  of  properly  draining 
houses  seems  to  have  been  rather  slow,  yet 
in  the  past  few  years  a  decided  change  for 
the  better  has  been  noticeable.  A  stir  has 
been  made  in  the  interest  of  healthy  homes 
and  healthy  living  largely  by  the  dissemi- 
nation of  useful  knowledge  on  the  subject 
through  newspapers,  popular  magazines, 
sanitary  journals,  pamphlet  and  health  re- 
ports. The  indifference  of  the  public 
gradually  vanished,  sanitary  laws  began 
to  be  better  understood,  and  the  evil  influ- 
ence upon  health  of  faulty  plumbing  work 
became  apparent.  A  loud  demand  for 
healthful  houses  arose,  sanitary  surround- 
ings were  eagerly  sought  for,  and  the 
consequence  was  that  architects,  to  meet 
the  wishes  of  their  clients,  were  obliged  to 
give  the  subject  some  thought  and  atten- 
tion. Builders,  in  their  turn,  were  not  slow 
to  guard  their  pecuniary  interest  by,  at 
least  a  superficial  endeavor  to  offer  ^hat 
the  public  demanded,  and  hereafter  sani- 
tary plumbing  and  sanitary  heating  be- 
came the  leading  features  of  many  adver- 
tisements of  speculative  house  builders. 


26 


The  greatest  step  forward,  however,  was 
made  when  in  our  large  cities  plumbing 
work  became  subject  to  board  of  health 
rules  and  regulations.  At  first  there  was, 
as  might  have  been  expected,  considerable 
ill-feeling  against  compulsory  measures, 
especially  against  the  intrusion  of  the 
ever-vigilant  sanitary  inspector  into  the 
interior  of  private  houses.  The  sacredness 
of  personal  rights,  as  embraced  in  the  old 
saying  IC  My  house  is  my  castle,"  was  ap- 
parently violated.  But  a  moment's  con- 
sideration of  the  vast  multitude  of  houses 
built  as  cheaply  as  possible,  to  sell  or  rent 
as  profitably  as  possible,  will  convince 
any  one  how  necessary  such  inspection 
must  be.  By  way  of  digression,  we  would 
like  to  see  a  similar  inspection  enforced  by 
law  regarding  the  fireproof  construction  of 
buildings.  Dwellings  and  apartment 
houses,  are  frequently  sold  or  rented  as 
"fireproof"  when  in  reality  they  are  little 
better  than  tinder-boxes,  falling  a  quick 
and  easy  prey  to  the  flames  of  a  once- 
started  conflagration. 

The  beneficial  effect  of   plumbing  laws 


27 

extends  principally  to  the  vast  number  of 
householders  and  families  in  large  cities, 
who  are  compelled  to  live  in  hired  dwell- 
ings, apartments,  or  tenements,  and  who 
cannot  protect  themselves  against  prevent- 
able sickness  due  to  unsanitary  surround- 
ings, in  particular  to  defective  drainage. 
The  standard  of  plumbing  work  in  such 
buildings,  where  all  items  of  expense  are 
apt  to  be  reduced  to  a  minimum,  became 
appreciably  improved  and  the  condition  of 
healthfulness  increased,  by  giving  its  con- 
trol to  a  board  of  health.  Even  if  no  other 
good  results  had  followed  the  enforcement 
of  rules  and  the  official  inspection  of  all 
work  in  new  buildings,  the  single  measure 
compelling  the  owner  of  each  new  house 
to  file  plans  and  specifications  clearly 
showing  and  describing  the  system  of 
plumbing  to  be  introduced  into  the  build- 
ing, had  a  wholesome  effect  upon  the  man- 
ner in  which  such  work,  henceforth,  was 
to  be  handled  by  architects  as  well  as  plum- 
bers. Since  no  work  could  be  commenced 
in  any  building  before  the  plans  and  spec- 
ifications filed  had  been  approved  by  the 


28 

board  of  health,  the  subject  of  drainage 
and  plumbing  received  its  share  of  proper 
attention  at  an  early  stage  of  the  construc- 
tion of  the  building. 

The  benefits  derived  from  these  meas- 
ures have,  it  is  true,  by  no  means  remained 
without  some  drawbacks,  which,  though 
not  necessarily  fatal  to  the  results,  still,  to 
some  extent,  hinder  as  rapid  a  progress 
as  might  have  been  expected.  To  these 
I  desire  to  make  a  brief  allusion.  So  far 
as  owners  are  concerned,  we  now  often 
find  too  much  reliance  placed  by  them  in 
the  supervision  exercised  by  boards  of 
health.  Even  with  a  multitude  of  effi- 
cient inspectors  in  their  employ,  this 
supervision  must,  of  necessity,  be  very 
general  only,  and  with  the  still  universal 
tendency  of  covering  up  and  burying  out 
of  sight  those  "  unsightly  pipes  and  fix- 
tures" much  defective  work  may  escape 
the  eye  of  an  Argus-eyed  and  faithful  in- 
spector. There  is,  moreover,  in  every 
plumbing  job  a  chance  for  much  botched 
work,  not  necessarily  involving  a  violation 
of  any  plumbing  regulation.  On  the 


29 

other  hand,  since  some  points  relating  to 
house  drainage  are  yet  disputed,  it  can- 
not be  expected  that  plumbing  regula- 
tions will  become  perfect  for  some  time 
to  come.  Even  the  most  complete  regu- 
lations which  I  have  seen  contain  certain 
rules  and  requirements  which  appear  to 
me  to  be  of  doubtful  value.  Considera- 
tions towards  manufacturers  of  plumb- 
ing goods  will  generally  prevent  boards  of 
health  from  prohibiting  the  use  of  appli- 
ances which  all  sanitarians  have  long  ago 
condemned.  Again,  it  is  obvious  that  such 
general  regulations  must  be  quite  inade- 
quate and  incomplete  when  applied  to 
work  in  very  large  and  extensive  structures. 
They  cannot  include  rules  regarding  all  the 
details  of  the  work,  for,  as  is  natural, 
board  of  health  laws  can  only  insist  upon 
and  enforce  a  certain  minimum  of  im- 
provements. 

As  regards  architects,  judging  from  a 
somewhat  extensive  personal  experience 
with  a  number  of  plumbing  specifications 
with  which  I  came  in  contact  during  the 
past  few  years  through  the  practice  of  my 


30 

profession,  much  improvement  is  notice- 
able, together  with  a  desire  to  keep  well 
informed  about  the  progress  in  the  prin- 
ciples and  the  practice  of  house  drainage. 
Yet  the  majority  of  their  specifications 
continue  to  be  written  in  a  fashion-like 
manner,  without  sufficient  attention  to 
the  details  and  to  improved  methods  and 
appliances,  and  failing  to  lay  proper  stress 
upon  the  quality  of  the  materials,  upon 
the  workmanship  required,  and  upon 
proper  and  stringent  tests  regarding  the 
pipe  system.  Nor  is  the  inspection  of 
such  work  a  thorough  one,  and  the  test- 
ing of  the  pipe  system  by  pressure,  if 
specified,  is  rarely  insisted  upon  by  archi- 
tects. In  those  cities  where  boards  of 
health  require  the  filing  of  plans  and 
specifications,  it  became  customary  with 
architects  to  •  use  blank  specifications, 
printed  and  furnished  by  the  health  board, 
which  contain  as  a  guide  the  essential  re- 
quirements, the  blank  spaces  in  them  being 
simply  filled  out  by  architects,  who  would 
add  a  few  additional  requirements  in 
writing.  I  do  not  know  whether  or  not 


31 

the  use  of  such  blank  specifications  is 
made  compulsory,  in  which  case  no  blame 
could  fall  upon  architects  for  using  them. 
What  I  do  know  is  that  such  specifications, 
as  applied  to  a  large  building,  must  neces- 
sarily be  quite  incomplete,  insufficient 
and  imperfect,  and  often  appear  un- 
systematic in  the  arrangement  of  the 
subject  matter. 

The  object  of  a  house  drainage  system 
has  long  been  understood  to  be  to  remove 
from  dwellings  at  once,  and  as  thoroughly 
as  possible,  all  liquid  waste  matters  before 
they  undergo  decomposition  and  emit 
unwholesome  gases  of  putrefaction.  In 
its  widest  meaning  the  term  "  house  drain- 
age "  is  made  to  include  the  removal  of 
surface  water  from  roofs,  areas  and  yards, 
as  well  as  of  subsoil  water  from  the  ground 
upon  which  a  building  is  erected.  Strict- 
ly speaking,  we  should  distinguish  be- 
tween drainage  and  sewerage  of  a  building, 
the  former  term  referring  to  the  removal 
of  all  clear  water  (roof  water,  surface 
water  and  subsoil  water),  the  latter  to 
that  of  fouled  waters  from  the  house- 


hold  (sewage  proper).  It  is  often  of 
very  great  importance  to  keep  the  one 
separate  from  the  other,  as,  for  instance, 
in  the  case  of  isolated  country  houses, 
where  sewage  is  conveyed  by  tightly- 
jointed  sewer  pipes  to  a  flush  tank  or 
other  tight  receptacle,  from  which  it  is 
disposed  of  by  irrigation  or  sub-surface 
irrigation  upon  or  underneath  lawns  or 
grass  land,  while  subsoil  water  is  removed 
by  open-jointed  land  drains  to  the  nearest 
watercourse,  brook  or  open  ditch.  A 
third  system  of  pipes  generally  carries, 
in  the  case  of  rural  dwellings,  the  rain 
falling  upon  the  roof  into  a  tight  cistern 
or  storage  tank  for  clean  water.  With 
city  houses  it  is  sometimes,  though  not 
often,  feasible  to  carry  out  the  same  sep- 
aration, at  least  as  far  as  the  subsoil  water 
is  concerned,  provided  a  special  line  of 
subsoil  drains  has  been  laid  in  the  street 
in  the  same  trench  with  the  sewer.  As  a 
rule,  in  the  case  of  narrow  city  lots,  one 
outlet  is  common  to  the  drain  and  the 
house  sewer,  but  it  is  one  of  the  most  im- 
portant duties  of  those  who  advise  in  such 


33 

matters  to  consider  the  best  means  for 
safely  disconnecting  the  open- jointed  tiles 
from  the  house  or  street  sewer,  to  pre- 
vent the  back  flow  of  sewage  and — still 
more  important  —  of  sewer  air  from 
the  house  sewer  into  the  tile  drains, 
from  where  it  would  easily  diffuse  into 
the  cellar  and  rise  to  the  upper  floors  of 
a  house. 

The  removal  of  subsoil  water,  or  at  least 
the  permanent  lowering  of  its  water  level 
to  secure  dryness  of  the  house,  is  equal  in 
importance,  from  a  sanitary  point  of  view, 
to  a  proper  system  of  house  sewerage  and 
plumbing.  It  is  best  accomplished  by 
lines  of  small-sized  common,  porous  land 
drains,  laid  at  least  two  feet  below  the  cel- 
lar floor,  with  open  joints,  protected  by  a 
collar,  wrapping  paper  or  muslin,  against 
chokage  from  dirt,  all  delivering  into  a 
main  drain,  sloping  toward  the  outlet, 
which  may  be  either  a  gutter  in  the  road, 
an  open  ditch  or  watercourse,  or  else  the 
sewer  in  the  street.  In  the  former  case  no 
further  protection  is  needed  at  the  outlet, 
except  a  strong,  fixed  grating,  to  prevent 


34 

the  entrance  of  mice  or  rats.  Where  sub- 
soil water  is  discharged  into  sewers  an 
efficient  disconnection  should  be  provided 
by  a  deep-seal  water  trap,  kept  constantly 
filled  by  some  automatic  device  in  con- 
nection with  the  water  supply  of  the 
house. 

In  advising  clients  in  regard  to  subsoil 
drainage,  I  generally  call  their  attention 
to  a  few  points  regarding  healthful  house 
construction,  not  strictly  belonging  to,  but 
intimately  connected  with,  the  ventilation 
and  drainage  of  dwellings,  and  which,  in 
most  cases,  remain  unheeded  by  architects 
and  builders.  I  refer  to  the  perfect  isola- 
tion of  the  house  from  the  ground  upon 
which  it  stands,  and  from  the  water  and 
air  contained  in  the  pores  of  the  soil.  It 
is  not  enough  to  provide  for  the  subsoil 
drainage  under  the  house  ;  its  walls  are 
frequently. exposed  to  moisture,  or  even  to 
water  veins  which  are  penetrated  in  dig- 
ging trenches  for  foundations.  Dampness 
of  walls  is  a  frequent  occurrence  in  cheaply 
built  houses  as  well  as  in  the  better  class 
of  houses  where  no  attention  is  paid  to 


35 

such  apparently  insignificant  details. 
Again,  the  damp  vapor  of  ground  air  and 
frequently  unhealthy  exhalations  from 
polluted  soils  would  constantly  rise  into 
the  cellar,  especially  if  assisted  in  their 
upward  passage  by  the  so-called  "suction" 
of  house  chimneys,  unless  provision  is 
made  for  a  thorough  isolation  of  the  cellar 
from  the  ground  below  by  a  tight  cellar 
floor,  which  at  the  same  time  will  prevent 
the  rise  of  subsoil  water.  Asphaitum  has 
proved  a  very  valuable  material  for  foun- 
dation walls,  damp-proof  courses,  as  well 
as  for  the  cellar  floor,  and  efficiently  ac- 
complishes this  much  to  be  desired  com- 
plete isolation. 

A  safe  drainage  of  the  subsoil  being 
arranged  for,  we  must  next  provide  for  the 
speedy  and  complete  removal  of  the  house 
sewage,  consisting  of  waste  water  from 
flushing  urinals  and  water  closets,  together 
with  human  excrements  and  urine,  of  dirty 
water  from  personal  ablutions  in  wash- 
bowls and  all  forms  of  bathing  tubs,  of 
chamber  slops,  of  foul  laundry  water  and 
water  used  for  rinsing  cooking  vessels  and 


36 

cleaning  dishes.  The  amount  of  sewage 
will  be  largely  increased  at  times  if  the 
rain  water  falling  upon  the  roof  and  upon 
paved  areas  and  court-yards  is  also  admit- 
ted into  the  house  sewer.  Whether  or  no 
this  should  be  done  will  depend  upon  the 
system  of  sewerage  existing  in  the  place, 
but  even  where  the  street  sewers  are  de- 
signed to  carry  and  to  ultimately  receive 
more  or  less  rainfall,  the  question  arises 
whether  it  is  better  to  have  within  the 
house  a  single  system  or  a  double  set  of 
pipes,  one  for  sewage  and  another  for  rain 
water.  This  question  cannot  be  decided 
in  a  general  way.  It  becomes  necessary  to 
take  into  consideration  the  special  condi- 
tions speaking  for  and  against  such  separa- 
tion, and  thus  each  building  becomes  a 
problem  in  itself.  This  much  may,  how- 
ever, be  stated,  that  it  is  preferable  to 
keep  the  vertical  pipes  leading  the  water 
from  the  roof  separate  from  vertical  soil 
or  waste  pipes. 

In  a  brief  article  on  the  subject  it  is,  of 
course,  impossible  to  refer  to  the  many 
details  of  plumbing  work.*  I  must  neces- 


37 

sarily  restrict  myself  to  a  statement  of  the 
leading  requirements  and  general  princi- 
ples governing  the  planning  and  arrange- 
ment of  such  work.  What,  in  the  light  of 
present  definite  knowledge  of  the  subject, 
I  consider  as  essential,  and  as  applicable 
without  modification  to  all  classes  of  build- 
ings, to  the  drainage  and  sewerage  of  the 
largest  and  most  expensive  mansion,  the 
smallest  city  house  or  suburban  cottage,, 
of  schools,  hotels,  hospitals,  factories  and 
tenement  houses,  may  be  summarized  a& 
follows  : 

I  should  use  witfiin  a  building  metal 
pipes  only,  principally  iron  pipes,  with  the 
exception  of  the  short  branch  waste  and 
supply  pipes,  which  may  be  of  lead.  I 
should  commence  with  the  iron  drain  at 


*  The  reader  may  find  the  subject  thoroughly  discussed 
in  the  author's  works :  —  House  Drainage  and  Sanitary 
Plumbing,  2d  Edition,  1884. 

Hints  on  the  Drainage  and  Sewerage  of  Dwellings, 
2d  Edition,  1884. 

Guide  to  Sanitary  House  Inspection,   3d  Edition,  1890. 

Domestic  Sanitary  Appliances  (in  press). 
See  also  the  article   "  Maxims   of   Plumbing  and  House 
Drainage,"  in  this  book. 


38 

least  five  feet  beyond  the  foundation  walls, 
so  as  to  make  sure  against  breakage  by 
settlement  of  walls,  and  to  further  guard 
against  the  latter  serious  calamity  I  should 
always  advise  to  turn  a  relieving  arch 
across  the  wall  where  the  pipe  passes  out. 
In  the  case  of  country  houses,  with  a  water 
supply  derived  from  a  well  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  house,  I  should  advise  carrying  the 
house  stwer  of  iron  to  a  point  well  beyond 
the  probable  limits  of  the  drainage  area  of 
the  well.  I  should  recommend,  even  in 
those  houses  where  due  regard  to  economy 
must  be  had,  the  use  of  extra  heavy  pipes  of 
uniform  thickness  and  tested  under  pres- 
sure before  use,  and  before  applying  a 
protective  coating  of  coal  tar  or  a  similar 
substance,  so  as  to  avoid  any  imperfections 
in  the  pipe  which  may  be  covered  up  by 
the  enameling  or  tarring  process.  I  should 
also  insist,  at  a  later  stage  of  the  work, 
upon  a  proptT  test  of  the  pipe  joints  in  or- 
der to  make  sure  that  the  whole  system  is 
air-tight  as  well  as  water-tight  beyond  any 
doubt.  I  should  advise  the  use  of  a  diam- 
eter of  only  four  inches  for  the  main  pipe 


39 

of  a  single  house  of  ordinary  size,  and 
should  restrict  the  size  of  the  main  drain  of 
larger  buildings  to  five  and  six  inches,  pre- 
ferring to  arrange  two  or  more  systems  of 
six-inch  main  sewers  for  the  largest  insti- 
tutions, in  place  of  one  eight  or  ten-inch 
pipe. 

I  should,  wherever  possible,  banish  all 
plumbing  fixtures  from  the  cellar  fioor,  in 
order  to  carry  the  house  drain  in  plain 
sight  either  along  one  of  the  cellar  walls, 
or  else  suspended  from  the  basement  floor 
beams. 

I  should  give  to  the  pipes  in  the  cellar 
all  the  fall  possible,  in  order  to  secure  a 
good  cleansing  velocity  of  the  flow  in  the 
main  pipe,  and  wherever  the  needed  fall 
could  not  be  obtained  I  should  advocate 
the  use  of  flushing  tanks  of  some  kind  at 
the  head  of  the  drains.  I  should  suggest 
strongly  to  support  the  main  drain  and  its 
branches  by  brick  piers,  placed  at  suitable 
intervals,  and  especially  at  the  junction  of 
all  upright  pipes.  I  should  take  care  to 
have  all  junctions  made  with  Y  branches 
instead  of  T  branches,  and  all  changes  from 


40 

the  direct  line  made  with  curves  of  an  easy 
sweep.  I  should  recommend  the  use  of 
cleaning  hand-holes,  at  intervals,  along  the 
main  line,  at  junctions,  bends,  and  near 
traps,  but  I  should  also  strongly  counsel 
the  thorough  and  tight  closing  of  all  such 
inspection  openings. 

I  should  carry  all  upright  soil  pipes,  and 
all  lines  of  waste  pipes,  in  the  straightest 
practical  course,  and  with  as  few  elbows 
as  possible,  up  to  and  through  the  roof, 
and  should  advise  making  this  extension 
in  no  case  less  than  four,  and  preferably 
six  inches  diameter,  to  provide  a  free 
outlet  above  the  roof.  This  outlet  I 
should  carry  well  above  the  roof  line, 
and  should  keep  it  away  as  far  as  possible 
from  any  chimney  flues,  ventilating  shafts, 
dormer  windows,  etc.  I  should  firmly 
insist  upon  a  copious  and  constant  circu- 
lation of  fresh  air  through  all  drain,  soil, 
waste  and  vent  pipes,  and  with  this  end 
in  view,  should  provide  a  suitably  large 
inlet  for  air,  at  the  lowest  point  of  the 
system,  and  extend  all  pipes  at  least  full 
size  above  the  roof,  doing  away  entirely 


41 

with  any  obstructions  in  the  shape  of  ven- 
tilators, cowls,  caps,  or,  worst  of  all,  return 
bends,  covering  the  mouths  of  pipes.  If 
there  is  ground  to  fear  an  accidental  or 
malicious  obstruction  of  the  pipes,  I  should 
urge  the  use  of  only  a  wire  netting,  or  a 
common  leader  guard  inserted  into  the 
pipe  mouth,  or,  what  is  better,  I  would 
extend  the  pipes  sufficiently  high  to  keep 
their  open  mouth  out  of  reach  of  mis- 
chievous persons. 

I  should  recommend  locating  all  fixtures 
as  much  as  possible  in  vertical  groups  in 
order  to  get  a  straight,  simple,  and  direct 
arrangement  of  soil  and  waste  pipes,  and  to 
reduce  the  length  of  branch  waste  pipes, 
thereby  securing  a  more  thorough  and 
direct  discharge  of  fixtures.  I  should  not 
use  a  soil  pipe  larger  than  four  and  five 
inches  inside  diameter,  even  for  the 
greatest  possible  number  of  fixtures,  and  I 
should  limit  the  size  of  upright  waste  pipes 
for  sinks,  basins  or  baths  to  two  and  three 
inches. 

Regarding  plumbing  appliances,  my 
advice  would  always,  even  in  the  case  of 


42 

the  most  costly  residences,  consist,  for 
obvious  reasons,  in  reducing  their  num- 
ber, and  consequently  the  amount  of 
plumbing  work,  as  much  as  practicable, 
and  to  avoid  placing  fixtures  in  spare 
rooms,  where  they  would  not  be  con- 
stantly used.  I  should  further  recom- 
mend to  locate  all  fixtures  in  well-lighted 
and  well-ventilated  rooms,  thereby  insur- 
ing a  proper  use,  and  a  better  care  of  the 
appliances.  I  should  abolish  all  plumbing 
from  sleeping  rooms,  confining  the  same 
to  the  bath  room,  the  kitchen,  the  laundry, 
the  pantry,  and  to  well-lighted  closets. 

Although  the  subject  of  warming  and 
ventilation  cannot  be  here  considered,  yet 
I  will  mention  that  I  should  insist  upon  a 
proper  and  constant  change  of  air  in  the 
bath  rooms  and  water  closets.  This  in- 
volves the  introduction  and  thorough  dif- 
fusion of  an  ample  supply  of  pure  air  from 
outside,  moderately  warmed  (in  our  climate 
during  at  least  seven  months  of  the  year), 
not  only  to  increase  the  comfort  of  the 
bath  room,  but  also  to  prevent  the  freezing 
of  supply  pipes,  or  of  the  standing  water 


43 


in  traps.  It  also  requires  the  removal  of 
the  foul  air,  which  can  be  attained  in  a 
simple,  yet  efficient  manner  by  arranging 
a  gas-burner  in  an  outlet  flue  of  ample 
size.  These  are  matters  which  begin  to  be 
better  understood  in  the  construction  of 
houses,  but  I  desire  to  call  attention  to  a 
defect  which  I  have  frequently  noticed  in 
otherwise  well-ventilated  houses,  namely, 
that  where  a  strong  suction  exists  from  the 
outlet-flues  or  chimney-places  provided  in 
rooms,  halls,  or  staircases,  the  supply  of 
air,  and  sometimes  noisome  odors,  are  fre- 
quently drawn  from  a  bath  room  or  a  slop 
closet.  Hence  it  should  be  borne  in  mind, 
in  arranging  a  general  system  of  house 
ventilation,  that  the  ventilation  of  apart- 
ments containing  water  closets,  urinals, 
slop  hoppers,  or  other  fixtures,  requires 
special  attention,  and  that  to  be  effective 
and  reliable  there  should,  preferably,  be^a 
constant  movement  of  air  from  the  other 
parts  of  a  house  toward  and  into  the  bath 
room;  in  other  words,  it  is  of  prime  im- 
portance to  arrange  a  well-drawing  outlet 
flure  in  a  bath  room  water  closet  apart- 


44 

merit,  which  would  tend  to  create  a  slight 
vacuum  in  said  room.  Sufficient  air  being 
thus  constantly  removed,  fresh  air  will 
easily  come  in  to  take  its  place,  provided  it 
is  admitted  in  ample  quantity  into  the 
other  parts  of  a  house.  Where  a  building 
is  ventilated  by  plenum  ventilation,  it  is 
better  not  to  include  bath-rooms  or  water 
closet  apartments  in  such  a  system. 

It  should  be  the  aim  to  have  the  whole 
plumbing  work  arranged  as  simply  as 
possible.  Supply  pipes  must  always  be  so 
located  that  they  will  not  freeze  in  cold 
weather,  and  it  is  preferable  to  keep  them 
away  from  the  outside  walls,  unless  special 
protection  is  given  them.  Householders, 
having  lived  during  a  winter  in  an  ex- 
posed country  house,  are  always  ready  to 
appreciate  measures  tending  to  the  protec- 
tion of  water  pipes  against  frost. 

Whenever  I  am  left  untrammeled  by 
prejudice  I  always  arrange  all  plumbing 
work  in  an  open  manner,  leaving  all  appli- 
ances, traps,  supply  and  waste  pipes  fully 
exposed  to  view.  The  advantages  gained 
hereby  are  two-fold.  In  the  first  place,  I 


45 

secure  a  better  and  more  thorough  work- 
manship of  those  parts  of  the  work,  which, 
being  usually  tightly  boxed  up,  are  very 
apt  to  be  less  carefully  finished,  and  this  is 
true  not  only  of  the  plumber's  work,  but 
also  of  that  of  the  carpenter  and  plasterer. 
From  a  sanitary  point  of  view,  and  like- 
wise for  other  reasons,  it  is  quite  import- 
ant to  have  all  those  unsightly  holes  where 
pipes  pass  through  floors  and  ceilings 
tightly  and  permanently  closed,  to  prevent 
diffusion  of  air  from  one  story  to  another. 
I  recently  examined  a  bath  room  in  an 
apartment  house,  where  at  each  cold  spell 
such  a  violent  draft  was  rising  through  a 
pipe  channel  leading  from  the  cold  base- 
ment to  the  upper  floors,  along  the  soil  and 
supply  pipes,  as  to  completely  chill,  and 
cause  the  freezing  up  of  the  water  in  the 
pipes,  much  to  the  annoyance  of  the  house- 
owner,  who  could  hardly  get  along  with- 
out the  plumber  as  soon  as  the  thermom- 
eter would  reach  the  freezing  point,  yet  the 
plumbing  in  this  building  was  done  "in  ac- 
cordance with  all  the  board  of  health  rules  " 
and  had  successfully  passed  inspection. 


46 

A  second  advantage  obtained  by  leav- 
ing plumbing  work  fully  exposed  to  view 
is  that  there  is  a  better  circulation  of  all- 
around  the  fixtures,  that  the  cleaning  and 
scouring  operations  of  servants  are  much 
facilitated,  that  all  parts  of  the  work  are 
easily  accessible  and  readily  inspected, 
and  that  repairs  are  less  frequent,  and  if 
they  become  necessary  that  there  is  little 
or  no  tearing  up  of  wood  work,  floors,  and 
base  boards.  An  open  arrangement  also 
aids  in  enlightening  the  anxious  minds  of 
some  householders  concerning  the  "hidden 
mysteries  of  plumbing  work."  What  is 
true  of  plumbing  fixtures  is,  of  course, 
equally  applicable  to  the  system  of  pipes 
in  a  dwelling.  I  strongly  advise  keeping 
all  pipes  outside  of  walls  or  partitions,  lo- 
cating them,  where  possible,  in  closets,  or 
in  inferior  rooms.  This  enables  one  to  in- 
spect at  any  time  any  pipe  joints  or  to 
readily  reach  any  stop-cock  or  valve,  should 
it  be  necessary  to  shut  off  the  water  from 
any  pipe.  I  generally  dispense  with  un- 
sightly lead  safes  under  fixtures,  believing 
that  with  the  open  arrangement  a  leakage 


47 

cannot  remain  unnoticed  for  a  sufficient 
length  of  time  to  work  serious  harm,  es- 
pecially where  walls  (to  the  usual  height 
of  wainscoting)  in  kitchens  and  bathrooms 
are  made  water  tight,  and  finished  in  tiles, 
plain  or  ornamental,  or  enameled  brick, 
and  where  floors  are  finished  with  marble, 
tiles,  slabs  of  slate,  cement,  or  in  simple 
terrazzo  work.  If  required  I  arrange  a 
drip  pipe  to  remove  any  water  from  leak- 
age, which  pipe  must  always  be  kept  en- 
tirely disconnected  from  any  soil  or  waste 
pipe. 

As  to  the  fixtures  proper,  I  should  select 
for  an  inexpensive  cottage,  as  well  as  fora 
luxuriously  furnished  city  residence,  those 
of  a  simple  character,  with  a  smooth,  and 
non-absorbent  surface.  The  exact  material 
of  the  fixtures  is  often  mainly  a  question 
of  cost.  For  water  closets,  slop  hoppers 
and  urinals,  which  latter,  however,  I  avo>id 
in  private  houses,  I  should  give  preference 
to  those  with  a  small  fouling  surface, 
made  in  annealed  glass  or  in  earthenware. 
I  recommend,  of  course,  using  water  closets 
without  any  mechanism  or  moving  parts 


48 

liable  to  get  out  of  order.  I  would,  where- 
ever  I  could,  avoid  the  use  of  fixtures  re- 
quiring a  hidden  overflow  pipe.  Bath  tubs 
of  all  kinds,  wash  bowls,  pantry  sinks, 
water  closets  and  urinals  may  now  be  had 
of  such  a  form  and  construction  as  to  do 
away  entirely  with  concealed  overflow 
channels,  which  are  often  the  cause  of  an- 
noying odors.* 

I  should  locate  fixtures  as  near  as 
practicable  along  a  soil  or  waste  pipe,  to 
avoid  the  always  objectionable  branch 
wastes  under  floors.  I  should  endeavor  to 
place  the  fixtures  of  different  floors  in 
groups  arranged  as  nearly  as  may  be  verti- 
cally above  each  other,  to  reduce  the  num- 
ber of  pipe  stacks.  I  should  also  aim  to 
give  to  each  fixture  an  independent  and 
direct  discharge  into  the  vertical  pipe.  I 
should  insist  upon  the  separate,  safe  and 
secure  trapping  of  every  fixture,  and  should 
prefer,  if  they  were  obtainable,  as  they  no 
doubt  will  be  at  a  future  day,  self-cleans- 


*  For  a  discussion  of  plumbing  appliances  see  the  author's 
books  in  a  foot  note  on  page  37,  particularly  his  "Domestic 
Sanitary  Appliances." 


49 


ing  and  seal-retaining  traps,  placed  as  close 
to  the  outlet  of  fixtures  as  possible,  and 
made  partly  or  entirely  of  glass,  with  the 
water  seal  fully  exposed. 

I  should  make  arrangements  to  secure  to 
each  fixture  in  a  building  an  ample  and 
never-failing  supply  of  water.  In  the  case 
of  water  closets,  slop  hoppers  and  urinals, 
I  should  always  use  a  separate  flushing 
cistern  for  each  fixture  or  group  of  fixtures, 
while  as  regards  the  other  fixtures  I  should 
give  preference  to  those  arranged  and 
constructed  in  a  manner  so  as  to  constitute 
in  themselves  a  small  flush  tank,  thus  se- 
curing, by  their  quick  discharge,  (through 
outlets  larger  than  commonly  in  use)  a 
thorough  cleansing  and  scouring  of  the 
waste  pipe  serving  them.* 

I  should,  finally,  never  have  a  direct 
connection  between  any  water  cistern,  a 
refrigerator  or  ice  chest  in  a  house  and 
the  drains  or  soil  pipes,  and  I  should  gi;ard 
with  particular  care  the  purity  of  the 
supply  for  drinking  purposes. 

*  Fixtures  having  this  important  advantage  are  described 
in  the  author's  work  on  "Domestic  Sanitary  Appliances." 


50 

I  have,  as  far  as  the  space  at  my  disposal 
permits,  outlined  the  leading  requirements 
of  a  proper  system  of  house  drainage,  and 
I  confidently  assert,  from  practical  know- 
ledge and  experience,  that,  wherever  they 
are  conscientiously  followed,  satisfactory 
results  cannot  fail  to  be  secured. 

A  few  points,  however,  have  not  been 
referred  to.  There  is,  for  instance,  the 
"  trap  on  the  .main  drain  "  question,  which 
is  still  agitating  the  minds  of  many.  I 
do  not  feel  inclined  to  be  dogmatic  about 
it,  for  in  my  own  practice  I  have  never 
followed  an  iron  rule,  but  have,  on  the 
contrary,  in  each  special  case,  carefully 
considered  and  weighed  the  circumstances 
and  conditions  affecting  the  question.  I 
always  use  a  trap  on  the  line  of  the  drain, 
if  the  latter  discharges  into  a  cesspool  or 
any  form  of  tank  in  which  sewage  is 
stored  for  some  length  of  time.  I  generally 
advise  the  use  of  a  trap  where  the  house 
drain  connects  with  a  foul  sewer,  as  in  the 
majority  of  cases  in  our  large  cities.  If  I 
use  a  trap,  I  should  insist  upon  having  it 
easy  of  access  (but  not  so  as  to  be  exposed 


51 

to   freezing),    and   provided   with   proper 
cleaning     hand-holes.       Where    a    house 
drains  into  a  street  sewer,  forming  part  of 
a  well-planned    general   system   of    well- 
flushed  sewers,   ventilated    by   open    soil 
pipes    in    the    houses,    constructed    under 
supervision  of    a    competent  engineer,    I 
should  not  object  to  the  omission  of  the 
trap,    always   provided   the   work   in   the 
house  is  thoroughly  well  done.    Where  the 
owner  would  not  mind  the  additional  ex- 
pense, I  should  probably  prefer  to  arrange 
for  the  ventilation  of  the  sewer  by  having 
a   pipe  carried  up  to  the  roof,  along  the 
outside  of    the   house,    thus  preserving  a 
complete  disconnection  of    the  house  in- 
terior from  the  sewer.     Whenever  I  use  a 
trap,  I  should  also  arrange  a  fresh  air  inlet, 
to   induce  a  current  through  the  soil  pipe 
system.     I  should,  however,  strongly  ad- 
vise my  clients  not  to  terminate  the  inlet 
in  a  box  on  the  sidewalk,  covered  witji  a 
grating,  as  is  now  so  often  done,  for  such 
a  grating  frequently  becomes   obstructed 
and  closed  in  winter  time.     Nor  should  I 
carry  the   fresh  air   pipe  up   to  the  roof. 


52 

Where  to  arrange  the  inlet  is  a  matter 
which  can  be  determined  only  in  each 
special  case,  and  which  ought  never  to 
be  restricted  by  a  hard  and  fast  rule, 
often  entirely  defeating  the  purpose  for 
which  the  inlet  was  established. 

The  question  of  material  most  suitable 
for  drains,  soil  pipes,  waste  and  supply 
pipes,  has  not  been  alluded  to,  nor  have  I, 
in  my  above  recommendations,  referred  to 
the  many  kinds  of  water  seal  and  mechanical 
traps  advocated  to  exclude  sewer  air  from 
the  fixtures.  I  do  not  feel  disposed  to  en- 
ter into  a  discussion  of  the  merits  and  disad- 
vantages of  the  "  venting  "  of  traps,  the 
object  of  which  is  largely  to  prevent  si- 
phonage.  Experiments  have  established 
with  a  sufficient  degree  of  certainty,  the 
fact  that  self-cleansing  S-,  P-,  or  running 
traps,  cannot  be  depended  upon  always 
to  retain  their  water  seal  against  •  si- 
phonage,  unless  air  is  admitted  at  the 
crown  and  sewer  side  of  the  trap,  either 
by  some  anti-siphoning  trap  attachment, 
or  by  a  so-called  "  back-air  "  pipe,  of  ample 
size.  Consequently,  I  should  not  use  such 


53 


traps  without  providing  such  protection 
as  the  remedies  mentioned  afford.  Later 
experiments  have  shown  that  an  air  pipe 
is  not  a  reliable  protection  against  siphon- 
age  in  all  cases,  especially  where  the 
course  of  the  air  pipe  is  long  and  tor- 
tuous, and  that  where  fixtures  are  not  in 
constant  use,  it  furthers  the  evaporation 
of  the  water  in  traps,  and  hence  endangers 
the  safety  of  plumbing  work.  That  it  in- 
creases the  cost  of  plumbing,  and  hinders 
simplicity  of  arrangement,  must  be  con- 
ceded by  all.  Thus,  while  it  offers  cer- 
tain advantages  in  some  instances,  there 
are  other  cases  where  the  disadvantages 
predominate.  It  remains  then  to  be  de- 
cided, only  after  a  thorough  and  intelli- 
gent consideration  of  all  conditions, 
whether  a  seal  retaining  water  seal  trap, 
safe  against  back  pressure,  siphonage  or 
other  influence,  or  an  anti-siphoning  trap 
attachment  of  some  kind,  may  not  be  pyef- 
erable.  The  question  cannot,  in  my  judg- 
ment, be  decided  in  an  off-hand  way.  Be- 
ing of  grave  moment  for  the  safety  of  the 
inmates  of  a  house,  the  question  of  trap- 


54 

ping  should  receive  an  earnest,  thoughtful 
and  unprejudiced  consideration.  Unfortu- 
nately, discussions  on  this  point,  in  sani- 
tary and  architectural  journals,  have  not 
always  been  divested  of  useless  and  much 
to  be  deprecated  personalities. 

As  with  traps,  I  also  prefer  to  omit 
lengthy  descriptions  of  any  special 
plumbing  fixtures.  There  are  now  a 
number  of  each  kind  in  the  market,  pos- 
sessing merits  and  giving  satisfaction, 
which  a  judicious  house  owner  may  select, 
guided  by  the  above  hints. 

In  conclusion,  it  must  always  be  borne 
in  mind,  that  no  system  of  plumbing  or 
drainage  will  work  forever,  without 
proper  care,  attention  and  periodical  in- 
spection; that  stagnation  of  water  or  air 
must  be  avoided  in  drain,  soil  and  vent 
pipes,  as  well  as  in  traps ;  that  the  water 
in  the  latter  should  be  frequently  changed; 
and  that,  in  the  tight  jointing,  safe  trap- 
ping and  constant  ventilation  of  pipes, 
together  with  the  frequent  flushing  and 
thorough  cleansing  of  fixtures,  consist  the 
principal  safeguards  of  a  proper  system  of 


55 


house    drainage    and     plumbing    against 
entrance    and  diffusion  of    noxious  sewer 


III. 
THE    DRAINAGE 


OF  A 


HOUSE. 


THE  DRAINAGE  OF  A  HOUSE, 


In  the  "  Homes  of  To-day  "  no  feature  is, 
to  my  mind  deserving  of  more  attention 
from  architects  and  house-builders  than 
the  sanitary  arrangements,  yet  this  very 
feature,  which  conduces  so  much  to  the 
well-being,  comfort,  and  happiness  of  the 
occupants  of  a  dwelling,  is  the  one  to 
which,  until  quite  recently,  far  too  little 
importance  was  attached.  I  believe  I  am 
not  mistaken  when  I  assert  that  the  drain- 
age of  a  house  is,  probably,  to  most  archi- 
tects, still  the  least  attractive  part  of  the 
numerous  details  of  house  construction. 
This  fact  is  not  surprising  if  we  remember 
that  a  true  architect  should,  above  all,  be 
an  artist.  Men  who  combine  depth  of 
artistic  feeling  with  a  profound  knowledge 
of  methods  of  construction  and  the  princi- 
ples of  sanitation,  as  applied  to  house- 

*  This  paper  appeared  originally  in  the  "  Homes  of  To- 
day," published  by  Frank  L.  Smith,  Boston,  Mass. 


60 

building,  are  rare  indeed.  Hence  a  new 
profession  has  sprung  into  existence,  the 
members  of  which  began  to  devote  their 
attention  to  the  hitherto  neglected  branches 
of  architecture,  not  merely  to  the  drainage 
and  sewerage,  but  also  to  the  ventilation, 
heating,  lighting,  water-supply,  and  much 
else  involved  in  dwelling-house  sanitation. 

o 

Mr.  Robert  Rawlinson,  C.  E.,  has  well  said 
that  "sanitary  engineering  is  a  new  science, 
and  as  its  main  purpose  is  to  make  health, 
comfort  and  a  prolongation  of  life  practica- 
ble, its  study  to  a  useful  purpose  must  be 
important." 

A  large  part  of  the  writer's  professional 
work  consists  in  the  'proper  arrangement 
of  the  sanitary  drainage  of  buildings, 
hence  it  is  assumed  that  the  following 
brief  statement  of  some  of  the  more  im- 
portant facts  concerning  house  drainage 
will  be  of  general  interest. 

During  the  last  decade  much  progress 
has  been  made  in  sanitary  knowledge,  and 
in  particular  in  the  art  of  draining  houses, 
and  not  the  least  useful  result  accomplished 
has  been  the  better  education  of  the  ^en- 


61 


eral  public  in  the  details  of  domestic  sani- 
tary matters.  Twenty  or  more  years  ago 
householders  cared  little  or  nothing  about 
the  final  disposal  of  the  foul  wastes  from 
houses.  They  were  content  if  the  plumbing 
work  was  arranged  so  that  a  free  flow  and 
discl^arge  of  water  could  be  obtained  at 
each  sink,  tub,  or  basin  in  the  house,  and 
appliances  of  improper  construction,  from 
a  sanitary  point  of  view,  were  retained, 
from  ignorance  or  from  reasons  of  false 
economy.  Noisome  and  disagreeable  odors 
about  a  water-closet  were  often  tolerated 
as  being  necessary  accompaniments  of  such 
fixtures.  The  danger  of  exposure,  night 
and  day,  year  in  and  year  out,  in  bed- 
rooms, living-rooms,  or  offices,  to  an 
atmosphere  polluted  by  gases  resulting 
from  the  decomposition  of  stagnant  sew- 
age matters,  was  wholly  ignored,  and  fhe 
warnings  of  early  reformers  generally  dis- 
regarded. In  city  dwellings  the  ample 
supply  of  water,  which  in  turn  serves  as  a 
vehicle  for  transporting  refuse  matter,  and 
the  more  general  introduction  of  the  con- 
venient plumbing  fixtures,  led,  owing  to 


62 


the  leaky  condition  of  brick  or  earthen- 
ware drains  under  houses,  to  a  sewage- 
sodden  condition  of  the  soil  under  base- 
ments. This  is  true  not  only  of  the  vast 
number  of  buildings  erected  by  shrewd 
speculators,  but  it  applies  alike  to  the 
palatial  mansions  of  the  rich. 

Indeed,  the  death-rate  from  zymotic 
diseases  increased,  not  only  in  houses  with 
damp  cellars,  basement,  and  foundation- 
walls,  but  principally  in  those  elaborately 
planned  and  richly  furnished  residences  of 
the  better  class,  where  innumerable  station- 
ary wash-bowls,  defective  in  arrangement, 
and  tightly  enclosed  by  decorative  cabinet 
work,  were  scattered  in  bed-rooms  all  over 
the  house.  As  the  chief  faults  of  the 
plumbing  work  in  such  dwellings,  the  fol- 
lowing may  be  enumerated,  viz.:  the 
unnecessary  multiplication  of  fixtures,  with 
its  accompanying  complication  of  the  work ; 
the  leaky  joints  of  soil  and  waste  pipes; 
the  broken  and  leaky  drains;  the  coating 
of  soapy  or  greasy  slime  attaching  to  the 
walls  of  waste-pipes ;  the  partial  or  utter 
absence  of  ventilation;  furthermore,  the 


63 


defective  methods  of  trapping;  the  un- 
trapped  openings  for  the  drainage  of  cellar 
floors  leading  to  the  house-sewer;  the  ac- 
cumulation of  grease  in  traps  under  kitchen 
and  pantry  sinks ;  the  lack  of  flushing  in 
all  parts  of  the  pipe  system,  resulting  in  an 
accumulation  of  putrefying  slime ;  the  con- 
cealment of  all  work,  and  the  bad  work- 
manship of  hidden  parts  of  the  plumbing; 
the  untidiness  of  the  spaces  under  fixtures ; 
the  injudicious  location  of  water-closets 
and  bath-rooms,  and  in  particular  the 
faulty  position  of  the  closet  for  servants' 
use,  in  out-of-the-way  corners,  without 
light  and  air;  lastly,  the  befouled  condition 
of  servants'  closets  and  housemaids'  sinks, 
the  offensiveness  of  the  hidden  interior 
of  objectionable  pan-closets,  the  deficient 
water-supply  at  fixtures  on  upper  floors  of 
city  houses,  the  inefficient  flush  of  valye- 
closets,  the  insufficient  strength  and  unreli- 
able support  of  lead  pipes,  and  the  careless 
exposure  of  plumbing  work  to  injury  by 
frost. 

To  say  that  all  this  has  been  changed  in 
the  past  years  would  hardly  be  true,  but  it 


64 

is  safe  to  assert  that  radical  improvements 
have  been  carried  out.  In  some  cities  the 
most  urgent  reforms  are  now  enforced  by 
law,  at  least  in  the  case  of  new  houses. 
Yet,  notwithstanding  all  this,  it  must  be 
said  that  the  character  of  the  plumbing 
work  in  most  modern  houses  is  susceptible 
of  much  improvement,  as  I  hope  to  be  able 
to  demonstrate.  In  my  own  practice,  my 
chief  aim  has  always  been  to  awaken  an 
interest  in  simplicity  of  construction,  and, 
in  this  respect,  my  practice  may  differ 
from  that  of  other  reformers.  I  have,  from 
time  to  time,  made  statements,  describing 
what,  in  my  opinion,  are  the  cardinal  re- 
quirements of  good  house  drainage,*  and 
I  claim  for  them  merely  that  they  are, 
first,  the  outgrowth  of  a  large  and  varied 
practical  experience  in  the  supervision  of 
drainage  works  in  new  houses,  and  in  the 
remodelling  of  defective  work;  and,  sec- 
ondly, that  they  are  the  result  of  a  careful 
study  and  comparison  of  all  the  sound 
methods  proposed  for  the  improvement  of 
the  sanitary  condition  of  our  homes. 

*  See  the  various  works  of  the  author. 


65 

Before   alluding  to  the  cardinal  princi- 
ples   and    fundamental     requirements    of 
good  drainage,  let  me  give  a  few  words  of 
general    advice   to    people  who  intend  to 
build.   To  begin  with,  if  you  build  a  house, 
keep  the  plumbing  and  drainage  as   a  sep- 
arate matter  from  your  house  contract.    It 
cannot  be   denied   that,   where  the  whole 
work  is  given  to    one  contractor,  his  chief 
interest — often  his   only    interest — lies  in 
the  prospect  of  pecuniary  gain.    Thus,  as  a 
rule,  the  plumbing  work  is  sub-let  by  him 
as  cheaply  as  possible.  There  are,  of  course, 
among  builders  good   men;    but  the  result 
is,  in  at  least  nine  cases  out  of  ten,that  the 
owner  pays  more  to  get  an  inferior  job,  and 
— what  is  more  serious — in  a   house   built 
for  his  own  occupancy  endangers  the  health 
of  the  members  of  his   family  by  exposing 
them  to  the  minor,  disorders  of  the  system, 
to  the  graver  ailments,    and  to   the    some- 
times fatal   diseases   associated    with  bad 
drainage.     To    get    even    tolerably  good 
work  under  the  circumstances,  is  certainly 
the  exception  rather  than  the  rule. 


06 

Supposing  then,  that  the  owner  follows 
this  part  of  my  advice  by  keeping  the 
plumbing  separate,  the  next  question  is, 
whether  plumbing  work  should  be  contract- 
ed for  at  a  stated  sum,  or  whether  it  should 
be  done  by  day's  work.  I  have,  some  years 
ago,  pronounced  emphatically  against  drain- 
age work  done  by  contract,  and  I  see 
no  reason  now  for  changing  my  opinion. 
I  still  believe  that  the  fairest  way  is  to 
have  such  work  done  on  a  fixed  percentage 
of  profit  to  the  contractor  on  all  labor  and 
material.  At  the  same  time  I  cannot  deny, 
and  have  frequently  demonstrated  in  my 
own  practice,  that  an  entirely  {satisfactory 
plumbing  job  may  be  obtained  by  con- 
tract work.  In  this  case,  however,  it  is 
absolutely  necessary  that  the  fixtures  be 
properly  located,  the  work  carefully 
planned  and  arranged  on  scientific  princi- 
ples, that  the  contract  be  based  upon  a 
strict  and  detailed  specification,  and  that 
the  work  be  placed  under  intelligent  super- 
vision. Even  then  it  is  a  wise  precaution 
to  hesitate  to  award  the  contract  to  4<the 


lowest  bidder,"  universal  as  the  habit  may 
be.  It  is  an  axiom  of  all  good  sanitarians, 
which  the  general  public  has  been  slow  in 
accepting,  that  no  house  should  be  occu- 
pied as  a  human  habitation  until  its  sani- 
tary condition,  as  regards  drainage,  sewer- 
age, ventilation,  and  kindred  matters,  has 
been  thoroughly  tested.  Therefore,  it  is 
evident,  that,  in  building  a  new  house, 
much  subsequent  trouble  and  annoyance, 
not  to  mention  serious  illness,  may  be 
avoided  if  the  above  details  of  sanitary 
construction  are  put  at  once  into  the  hands 
of  an  expert. 

A  few  progressive  architectural  firms 
now  follow  the  radical  departure  of  em- 
ploying regularly  a  sanitary  engineer  or 
plumbing  expert  to  look  after  the  sanitary 
details  of  houses.  A  number  of  others 
have  the  moral  courage  to  tell  their  clients 
that  they  much  prefer  to  have  a  specialist 
control  the  plumbing  work  in  houses  built 
under  their  supervision.  I  venture  to  pre- 
dict that  it  will  not  be  many  years  before 
attention  to  sanitation  will  be  universally 
practised,  and  sanitary  construction  be  rep- 


68 

resented  by  specialists  in  the  leading  arch- 
itectural offices.  There  would  certainly 
seem  to  be  ample  work  on  hand,  and  the 
results,  so  far  obtained  where  this  practice 
is  followed,  would  seem  to  justify  its  more 
general  adoption. 

At  present  the  prevailing  custom  is  to 
leave  too  much  of  the  detail  of  the  work  to 
the  discretion  of  the  plumbing  contractor. 
It  is  quite  evident,  that,  as  the  plumber's 
chief  interest  is  that  of  a  business  man,  he 
will  not  make  particular  efforts  to  simplify 
the  work  submitted  to  him,  by  adopting 
safer  and  less  complicated  methods  than 
those  called  for  by  the  average  specifica- 
tion, and  by  cutting  out  and  dispensing 
with  unnecessary  fixtures.  Of  course 
there  are  exceptions,  but  they  are  deci- 
dedly in  the  minority.  As  a  rule,  phimb- 
ers  are  too  apt  to  sneer  at  any  attempt  of  a 
radical  departure  from  the  methods  of  work 
handed  down  to  them  by  tradition. 

Owners,  on  the  other  hand,  often  nowa- 
days, place  too  implicit  confidence  in  the 
supervision  carried  out  by  boards  of  health. 
While  the  results  accomplished  in  cities 


69 


where  plumbing  work  is  subject  to  regula- 
tions and  official  inspections  have  been 
most  gratifying,  it  can  not  and  should  not 
be  expected  that,  even  with  an  increased 
force  of  inspectors,  every  individual  house 
will  receive  sufficient  attention.  To  illus- 
trate: I  have  in  mind  a  newly  built  house 
on  the  West  side  of  the  upper  part  of  the 
city  of  New  York,  which  I  was  recently 
asked  to  ftispect  by  a  client  who  had  pur- 
chased it  immediately  upon  its  completion. 
The  work  was  done  under  board-of-health 
supervision,  but  evidently  by  a  rascally  con- 
tractor, with  the  result  that  the  new  owner 
had  to  spend  about  seven  hundred  and  fifty 
dollars  to  put  the  plumbing  into  a  merely 
tolerably  good  condition,  by  recaulking 
fraudulent  joints  in  iron  pipe,  by  re-fitting 
water-closets  left  with  broken  earthen  trap 
connection,  by  remodelling  sinks  left  ina- 
perfectly  trapped,  and  by  putting  in  a 
proper  system  of  tank- water  supply, — the 
house  being  fitted  with  plumbing  appar- 
atus on  the  upper  floors,  where  in  daytime 
the  city  water  supply  failed.  In  order  not 
to  be  misunderstood,  I  desire  to  state  ex- 


70 

pressly  that  this  is  not  cited  as  illustrating 
the  imperfect  supervision  of  boards  of 
health, — for  their  inspectors  accomplish 
as  much  good  as  would  seem  possible  under 
the  circumstances,  considering  the  vast  ex- 
tent of  the  building  districts  assigned  to 
each  of  them, — but  only  to  warn  the  pub- 
lic against  putting  too  much  weight  upon 
the  statement,  now  so  frequently  encoun- 
tered in  announcements  of  real  estate 
agents  and  building  speculators,  that  "  the 
plumbing  work  was  done  under  supervision 
of  the  board  of  health" 

Again,  neither  architects  nor  owners 
should  allow  themselves  to  be  guided — as 
is  unfortunately  too  often  the  case —  by 
the  advice  of  dealers  in  plumbers'  supplies 
or  manufacturers  of  sanitary  specialties. 
No  matter  how  intelligent  and  ingenious 
they  may  be,  their  judgment  cannot  be 
unbiassed.  This  is  so  obvious  as  hardly  to 
require  any  further  explanation. 

In  matters  of  drainage,  perfect  safety 
lies  in  absolutely  faithful  and  faultless 
work.  This  can  only  be  attained  by  em- 
ploying first-class,  honest,  and  thoroughly 


71 

competent  workmen,  and  by  using  first- 
class  materials,  fittings,  and  apparatus,  by 
which  I  do  not  mean  gilt-edged,  embossed 
or  decorated  bowls,  costly  cabinet-work, 
fancy  marble-work  or  tiling,  and  nickel 
or  silver  plated  pipes.  All  such  features 
are  only  "for  show,"  and  a  perfect  job, 
from  a  sanitary  point  of  view,  may  be  se- 
cured without  them. 

To  give  to  housebuilders  specific  advice, 
I  should  counsel  them  to  avoid  all  compli- 
cation, and  to  aim  at  simplicity;  to  avoid 
having  plumbing  fixtures  not  in  daily  or 
constant  use;  to  have  what  fixtures  are 
needed  conveniently  located,  without  scat- 
tering them  injudiciously  over  the  house. 
Too  much  convenience  in  the  shape  of  a 
profusion  of  fixtures  increases  the  risk; 
while  by  reducing  the  number  of  openings 
into  the  waste  pipe  system,  the  amount  of 
piping,  and  hence  chances  of  leakage,  are 
reduced  correspondingly.  Plumbing  work 
should  be  confined  mainly  to  the  bath- 
room, the  kitchen,  pantry,  and  laundry. 
Some  well-meaning  friends  have  repeated- 
ly expressed  surprise  at  the  stand-point 


72 

taken  by  me  in  advising  the  banishment  of 
all  fixtures,  washbowls  or  others,  from 
sleeping  and  living  rooms.  I  desire  to 
state  distinctly  that  I  consider  it  entirely 
feasible  and  practicable,  in  the  present  ad- 
vanced state  of  the  art  of  draining  houses, 
to  have  in  each  bedroom  of  a  house  the 
luxury  of  a  stationary  washstand,  with  an 
abundant  flow  of  hot  and  cold  water,  and 
made  perfectly  secure  against  entrance  of 
sewer  air.  Convenient  as  such  "  set " 
basins  may  be,  I,  as  a  rule,  advise  dispens- 
ing with  them  in  sleeping  apartments,  and 
unventilated  closets  adjoining  them,  in 
view  of  the  possibility  of  imperfect  work, 
particularly  where  plumbing  inspection  is 
not  insisted  upon.  Moreover,  it  should  not 
be  overlooked,  that,  however  safe  plumb- 
ing fixtures  may  be  originally  constructed, 
the  possibility  remains  of  their  becoming 
unsafe  under  careless  use  and  management. 
In  advising  the  employment  of  compe- 
tent sanitary  experts,  I  have,  to  some  ex- 
tent, a  personal  interest  in  view.  This  I 
cannot  deny;  but  the  force  of  the  advice 
is  not  weakened  by  this  admission,  and  it 


73 

should  not  be  overlooked  that  the  public  is 
ultimately  the  gainer.  In  support  of  my 
argument  in  favor  of  expert  superintend- 
ence as  regards  sanitary  construction,  I 
may  be  permitted  to  quote  what  others 
have  well  said  before  me:  "  Sensible  peo- 
ple, wheta  they  are  ill,  consult  a  physician, 
and  not  an  apothecary.  When  they  wish 
to  plan  a  house  they  take  the  advice  of  an 
architect,  and  not  a  builder.  Both  apoth- 
icary  and  builder  are  of  course  necessary." 
So  it  is  also  with  sanitary  experts.  The 
sanitary  engineer  and  the  plumber  are  both 
necessary;  but,  while  the  execution  of  the 
drainage  works  of  a  house  should  be  in- 
trusted to  a  plumber,  the  design  of  the 
drainage  system  should  be  in  the  hands  of 
a  disinterested  engineer.  That  so  many 
householders,  although  considering  the 
plumber  "the  pillager  of  their  purses,'2 
still  should  persist  in  relying  in  the  major- 
ity of  cases  solely  upon  his  advice,  is  a  mat- 
ter beyond  comprehension  to  me. 

Whole  volumes  may  be,  and  have  been, 
written  describing  and  explaining  the  gen- 
eral principles  of  sanitary  plumbing.  The 


74 

essential  points  may  be  summed  up  in  the 
following  brief  rules,  viz. : — 

Avoidance  of  any  retention  of  filth  on 
the  premises,  by  complete,  automatic,  and 
instant  removal  of  all  waste  matter  before 
decomposition  takes  place. 

Thorough  ventilation  of  the  whole  drain- 
age system. 

Abundant  and  frequent  flushing  of  all 
fixtures,  traps,  and  waste  pipes. 

Secure  trapping  of  all  vessels  having 
openings  in  communication  with  the  waste 
pipe  system. 

Avoidance  of  all  manner  of  mechanical 
obstruction  to  the  flow  of  waste  water. 

Durability  of  the  work,  soundness  of 
materials,  and  tightness  of  joints. 

Perfect  accessibility  to  all  parts  of  the 
work. 

•Noiselessness  in  operation  of  all  fixtures. 

Prevention  of  unnecessary  water  waste 
by. leakage,  by  freezing,  or  during  flush- 
ing. 

The  cardinal  rule  in  planning  should  be 
to  observe  the  greatest  possible  simplicity 
of  arrangement  consistent  with  conven- 


75 

ience  and  comfort.  A  fundamental  re- 
quirement is  the  reduction  of  the  number 
of  fixtures,  and  another  the  concentration 
of  waste  discharges  through  as  few  well- 
ventilated  pipe  channels  as  possible.  As 
an  instance  from  my  own  practice  I  may 
mention  that  in  re-arranging  the  plumb- 
ing work  for  the  main  building  of  a  large 
insane  asylum  in  this  State,  I  have  grouped 
not  less  than  ten  water-closets,  thirteen 
basins,  three  slop-hoppers,  seven  bath-tubs, 
one  urinal,  and  one  sink,  on  four  floors, 
around  a  single  line  of  soil  pipe,  kept*  free- 
ly open  at  the  top  and  at  its  lower  end; 
thus  gaining  not  only  the  advantage  of 
greatly  reduced  cost,  but  the  benefit  of  an 
abundant  flushing  of  the  only  soil-pipe, 
together  with  compactness  of  arrangement. 
A  multiplication  of  soil  pipe  stacks  and 
long  lateral  waste  pipes  must  both  be 
avoided.  Each  fixture  should  have  a  di- 
rect and  short  connection  to  the  soil  pipe, 
if  possible  by  a  separate  Y-branch.  Each 
fixture  should  be  separately  and  securely 
trapped.  Where  long  branch  waste  pipes 
are  unavoidable  they  should  have  separate 


independent  vent  pipes  through  the  roof. 
Lateral  branches  to  the  soil  pipe,  if  not 
more  than  a  few  feet  long,  do  not  need 
this  ventilation,  provided  the  fixtures  are 
quick  emptying  and  in  frequent  use ;  for  at 
each  discharge  of  the  fixture-  a  movement 
of  air  takes  place  sufficient  to  avoid  stag- 
nation. All  soil  pipes  should  have  ample 
ventilation  at  top  and  bottom,  and  their 
mouths  above  the  roof  should  be  enlarged, 
and  kept  unrestricted  by  any  form  of  cov- 
er. All  basins,  tubs,  and  sinks  should  have 
large  waste  outlets,  to  empty  quickly  and 
to  fill  the  waste  pipes,  thereby  securing  a 
thorough  scouring  of  the  sides.  I  am  in 
favor  of  using  large  supply  'pipes  and 
valves  and  faucets  with  free  waterway; 
but  I  also  recommend  using  small  waste 
pipes  and  small  traps,  as  having  a  greater 
tendency  to  keep  clean.  Outlets  of  water- 
closets,  on  the  contrary,  should  in  my 
judgment  be  restricted  as  much  as  is  con- 
sistent with  their  safe  use.  Every  dis- 
charge vessel  in  a  house  should  act  as  a 
flush  tank.  All  fixtures  should  be  of  a 
strong,  durable,  non-absorbent,  and  non- 


77 

corrosive  material,  with  smooth  surface, 
and  free  from  corners  favoring  accumula- 
tion of  foulness.  The  question  of  over- 
flow pipes  has  been  solved  in  a  simple  man- 
ner by  the  introduction  of  a  number  of 
excellent  appliances,  doing  away  entirely 
with  concealed  overflow  passages  of  any 
kind. 

I  favor  the  entire  exposure  of  all  spaces 
under  plumbing  fixtures  and  about  pipes, 
for  it  should  be  constantly  borne  in  mind 
that  even  the  best  workmanship  and  ma- 
terial cannot  be  expected  to  last  forever, 
and  leaks  or  other  defects  are  more  read- 
ily detected  if  the  above  advice  is  followed. 
Any  one  who  has  had  occasion  to  carry 
out  sanitary  inspections  will  bear  me  out 
in  the  statement  that  all  inspections  are 
greatly  facilitated  where  work  is  kept  ex- 
posed. It  should,  therefore,  be  laid  down 
as  a  rule  in  new  work,  to  keep  every  thing 
in  sight,  to  leave  pipes  and  fixtures  ex- 
posed to  view,  and  traps  and  stop  cocks 
accessible.  This  also  promotes  cleanliness, 
and  greatly  facilitates  the  carrying  out  of 
needed  repairs  or  alterations. 


78 

I  advise  closing  all  free  communication, 
by  the  pipe  channels,  betweeen  the  various 
floors  of  a  building,  in  order  to  avoid  the 
carrying  about  of  local  odors  from  one 
part  of  a  house  to  another. 

Without  making  any  attempt  to  be  ex- 
haustive, I  will  mention  at  least  a  few  mat- 
ters of  construction.  All  soil  and  waste 
pipes  should  be  of  heavy  iron  pipe,  and 
restricted  in  diameter,  so  as  to  increase  the 
flushing  effect  of  a  stream  passing  through 
them,  thus  avoiding  deposits  and  subse- 
quent stoppages.  All  piping  should  be 
made  both  air  and  water  tight,  drains 
should  be  laid  with  proper  fall  and  true 
alignment,  junctions  should  be  made  with 
Y-branches,  and  cleaning  hand-holes 
should  be  provided  in  places  where  needed. 

Traps  for  fixtures  should  have  no  enlarge- 
ments or  corners  favoring  accumulations 
of  slime  or  sediment,  and  no  mechanical 
obstructions  should  be  countenanced. 
Traps  should  be  self-scouring,  made  readily 
accessible  by  tight-fitting  yet  easily  re- 
movable clean-out  caps,  and  should  have  a 
water  seal  of  sufficient  depth,  and  per- 


79 

fectly  secure  against  self-siphonage,  back- 
pressure, capillary  attraction,  siphonage> 
and  evaporation.  From  my  best  knowledge 
and  belief,  I  cannot  accept  as  universally 
necessary  the  requirement  of  "  back  venti- 
lation" of  traps.  I  conform  to  it,  as  a 
matter  of  course,  wherever  local  board- of  - 
health  regulations  require  it;  as  I  have  also- 
been  compelled — always  under  protest 
— to  run  fresh-air  inlet-pipes  to  grated 
openings  in  sidewalks,  which  choke  with 
ice  and  snow  in  winter-time,  and  to  cover 
soil  pipes  with  the  objectionable  return 
bends  and  vent  caps.  I  do  not  fail  ta 
explain  to  my  clients  that  the  back  airing 
of  traps  is  done  at  the  expense  of  sim- 
plicity ;  that,  in  a  properly  laid-out  system,, 
trap  vent  pipes  are  not  necessary  to  prevent- 
dead  ends  in  short  lateral  waste  pipes;  and 
that  prevention  of  siphonage  can  be  ao- 
complished,  and  the  extra  cost  incurred  by 
back-air  pipes  be  saved,  in  all  but  rare 
instances,  by  adopting  simpler  and  well- 
known  devices.  Where  I  am  compelled  to- 
run  back-air  pipes,  complicating  the  pipe 
system,  it  is  always  my  endeavor  to  modify 


80 

the  arrangement,  so  as  not  to  expose  the 
water  in  the  trap  too  much  to  the  air 
current;  for  there  can  be  no  question  that 
the  thereby  increased  free  circulation  of 
air  in  the  vicinity  of  the  sealing  water  of 
traps  hastens  the  unsealing,  by  evapor- 
ation, of  traps  under  fixtures  which  remain 
unused  for  some  days  in  succession,  and 
endangers  the  security  of  all  traps  during 
any  period  when  a  house  is  left  unoccupied. 
Water-closets  have  now  come  into  almost 
universal  use,  even  in  cottages  of  moderate 
cost,  and  their  advantages  and  comforts 
over  more  primitive  devices  are  undeniable. 
A  water-closet  is  the  most  important 
plumbing  fixture  in  the  house,  and  hence 
should  be  selected  and  put  up  with  par- 
ticular care.  A  good  apparatus  should 
fulfill  the  following  requirements,  viz. :  it 
should  be  simple,  neat,  and  compact  in 
design  and  construction;  durable,  strong, 
and  not  liable  to  breakage  by  careless  use ; 
of  a  smooth  material,  with  ample  standing 
water  in  the  bowl;  all  parts  exposed  to 
fouling  should  be  thoroughly  scoured;  the 
flush  of  the  closet  should  be  powerful, 


SI 

quick,  copious  yet  noiseless;  the  water- 
closet  should  be  securely  trapped,  and  the 
trap  kept,  if  possible,  accessible  and  its 
water-seal  visible ;  it  should  be  free  from 
all  machinery  liable  to  get  out  of  order, 
and  should  be  economical  in  the  use  of 
flushing  water  required  to  keep  it  in  a 
clean  condition.  There  are  a  number  of 
excellent  waiter-closet  appliances  now  in 
the  market,  which  practically  fulfill  nearly 
all  of  these  requirements. 

Properly  arranged  water-closets  will  also 
serve  the  purpose  of  a  good  urinal,  and 
thus  do  away  with  a  former  abomination 
in  houses.  A  clean  slop-hopper  or  house- 
maid's sink  on  the  bedroom  floor  of  a  house 
is  an  undeniable  convenience  to  servants, 
yet,  rather  than  put  it  in  a  dark  and  un- 
ventilated  closet,  and  leave  it  without 
means  for  flushing,  I  should  advise  using 
the  water-closet  in  its  stead. 

As  regards  lavatories  of  all  kinds,  the 
first  requirement  is  that  the  inlet  and 
outlet  openings  should  not  be  one  and  the 
same;  for,  if  so,  in  filling  the  vessel,  some 
of  the  dirty  water  comes  back  with  the 


82 


clean.  This  same  objection  applies  to  a 
number  of  waste-valves  for  bath-tubs  and 
basins  designed  to  take  the  place  of  the 
ordinary  chain  and  plug  arrangement. 
The  latter  device  has  also  radical  defects, 
which  are  beginning  to  be  more  universally 
recognized  and  admitted.  The  outlets  of 
the  ordinary  chain  and  plug  fixtures  are 
altogether  too  small  in  proportion  to  the 
diameter  of  their  trap  and  waste  pipe,  with 
the  inevitable  result  that  both  remain  im- 
perfectly flushed,  and  accumulate  to  some 
degree  foulness.  The  chain  and  plug  in 
the  bottom  of  fixtures  is  inconvenient  in 
use,  and  foul  slime  attaches  to  the  num- 
erous links  of  the  chain,  which  are  difficult 
to  clean.  Finally  it  becomes  necessary 
with  such  fixtures  to  use  hidden  overflow 
channels,  the  inside  walls  of  which  receive 
no  constant  flow  of  water,  hence  become 
readily  fouled;  and,  being  arranged  so 
that  they  cannot  be  reached,  they  offer  no 
chance  for  cleaning.  The  decaying  soap 
slime  coating  the  overflow  passages  remains 
in  open  communication  with  the  apart- 
ment, and  forms  a  serious  objection,  a 


83 


standing  nuisance,  and  a  menace  to  health. 
Numerous  patent  contrivances  have  been 
invented,  in  which  the  aim  has  been  to  do 
away  with  the  use  of  chain  and  plug,  but 
which  retain  other  objectionable  features. 
Fortunately,  wash-basins,  bath-tubs,  and 
sinks  may  now  be  obtained  with  standpipe 
overflow,  which  answer  all  the  require- 
ments which  can  be  made  to  such  ap- 
paratus. They  have  large  outlets,  causing 
a  rapid  discharge,  and  securing  the  in- 
cidental advantage  of  a  thorough  flushing 
of  the  trap  and  waste  pipe.  The  inside  of 
these  fixtures  presents  a  smooth  and 
unbroken  surface,  the  lift  devices  for  the 
standpipe  are  convenient  in  use,  and  the 
standpipe  itself  can  be  readily  disconnected 
for  cleaning  purposes.  There  is  less  labor 
for  the  plumber  in  fitting  up  such  basins 
or  baths;  the  number  of  joints  to  be  made 
is  reduced  to  a  minimum;  and  every 
essential  part  of  the  fixture,  including  its 
discharge  and  overflow  arrangement,  is 
visible  and  completely  accessible. 

Concerning  tests,  as  applied  to  plumbing 
work  during  construction  and  after  com- 


84 

pletion,  there  cannot  any  more  at  this  date 
be  the  slightest  doubt  that  security  for 
work  properly  done  lies  in  the  clause  of 
the  contract  specifying  that  all  work  will 
be  submitted  to  rigid  tests  before  being 
finally  accepted.  Experience  deduced  from 
my  own  practice  is  that  a  better  class  of 
work  is  turned  out  where  these  conditions 
are  insisted  upon,  and  I  find  that  mechanics 
doing  first-class  work  have  no  objection  to 
any  reasonable  test  applied  to  their  work. 

The  fundamental  rules  and  requirements 
hastily  sketched  above  are  applicable  to  all 
classes  of  buildings,  to  dwellings  of  mod- 
erate cost,  as  well  as  to  mansions  and 
palatial  residences.  While  writing  this 
article  I  have,  among  other  work,  charge 
of  the  drainage  of  a  hospital,  a  school - 
house,  a  club-house,  a  mission-house^  a 
large  fire-proof  hotel,  a  row  of  apartment- 
houses,  and  a  number  of  city  and  country 
residences,  some  elaborate  and  expensive, 
others  of  moderate  cost  and  plain  design. 
In  all  these  buildings,  without  exception, 
the  above  leading  requirements  are  being 
carried  out. 


85 

There  are,  of  course,  numerous  other 
points  in  the  plumbing  work  of  a  building 
requiring  attention,  such  as  the  arrange- 
ment of  the  supply  pipes,  the  hot-water 
service,  questions  of  tank  supply,  pumps 
and  pumping  engines,  fitting  up  of  hot- 
water  boilers,  etc. ;  but  these  cannot  be  dis- 
cussed without  stepping  outside  of  the  sub- 
ject indicated  in  the  title  of  this  essay. 

In  arranging  the  drainage  of  a  house, 
the  ultimate  disposal  of  the  sewage — a 
matter  usually  outside  the  province  of  the 
architect — should  not  be  lost  sight  of. 
The  sanitary  expert  must  consider  the 
various  methods  of  accomplishing  this  dis- 
posal of  the  household  waste  without  of- 
fence. Where  a  discharge  into  sewers  or 
open  water  courses  is  inadmissible  or  un- 
available, the  disposal  of  the  sewage  on 
the  premises  is  the  only  alternative. 
Where  sufficient  ground  cannot  be  had,  a 
perfectly  tight  and  well-ventilated  cess- 
pool, situated  at  a  safe  distance  from  the 
dwelling,  and  widely  apart  from  any  well 
furnishing  drinking  water,  is  the  only  de- 
vice to  be  tolerated,  although  it  is  at  best 


a  makeshift  involving  the  temporary  stor- 
age of  noxious  and  decomposing  organic 
matter. 

In  the  case  of  suburban  and  country 
residences  having  ample  grounds  about 
them,  a  perfectly  safe  solution  of  the  dif- 
ficulty may  be  found  in  the  adoption  of 
the  sub-surface  irrigation  system,  with 
automatic  flush  tank,  in  which  the  sewage 
is  intermittently  distributed  under  the 
soil  by  a  net- work  of  drain  tiles  laid  close 
under  the  surface.* 


*  See  the  author's  book  in  the  Science  Series  entitled, 
"  The  Disposal  of  Hoiisehold  Wastes,"  published  by  the 
D.Van  Nostrand  Co.,  23  Murray  Street,  New  York  City.  1890. 


IV. 

XI  MS 


PLUMBING 

AND 

HOUSE  DRAINAGE. 


The  following  notes  on  plumbing  will 
show  more  particularly  what  requirements 
should  be  made  in  regard  to  materials, 
workmanship  and  arrangement  of  the 
plumbing  work  in  houses.  They  should  be 
looked  upon  and  used  merely  as  a  frame- 
work upon  which  a  specification,  suited  to 
each  special  case,  is  to  be  constructed. 
They  are  intended  primarily  to  suggest 
points  that  require  careful  consideration, 
but  they  also  constitute  instructions  for 
the  guidance  of  the  mechanics  engaged  in 
such  work. 


MAXIMS 

OF 

PLUMBING  AND  HOUSE  DRAINAGE. 


To  obtain  a  safe  and  secure  system  of 
drainage  and  plumbing  in  a  building,  to 
secure  to  a  house1  immunity  at  all  times 
from  sewer  air,  and  to  prevent  any  subse- 
quent annoyances  incident  to  bad  arrange- 
ment and  careless  workmanship  in  water 
pipes  and  plumbing  appliances,  it  is  nec- 
essary to  observe  the  following  points : 

First,  to  have  the  system  of  fixtures, 
traps,  supply  and  waste  pipes  well  planned 
and  arranged  in  accordance  with  the  best 
rules. 

tiecond,  to  have  the  work  itself  con- 
structed in  a  thoroughly  able  and  efficient 
manner  by  competent  mechanics  and  under 
proper  superintendence. 


90 

Finally ',  after  the  work  is  all  completed 
and  put  to  use,  to  have  it  managed  with 
intelligence,  properly  taken  care  of,  and 
examined  from  time  to  time,  as  to  its  con- 
tinued soundness  and  freedom  from  de- 
fects, as  is  done  with  all  other  mechan- 
ical apparatus  and  machinery. 

Hence,  the  subject  naturally  divides 
itself  into  the  following  sections,  viz. : 

A.*  Principles  which  should  govern  the  plan- 
ning and  location  of  plumbing 
work  in  dwellings. 

23.  Rules  regarding  the  proper  construc- 
tion of  the  work,  in  particular  as  to 

(1)  Materials. 

(2)  Workmanship. 

(3)  General  Arrangement. 

(4)  Tests.  ' 

C.  Suggestions  as  to  the  management  and 
proper  care  of  plumbing  apparatus. 

It  is  well  known  that  much  of  the  suc- 
cess of  a  system  of  house  drainage  and 


91 

plumbing,  to  say  nothing  of  the  conven- 
ient and  compact  grouping  of  fixtures  and 
the  thereby  reduced  cost  of  the  work,  de- 
pends upon  a  judicious  planning  and  ar- 
rangement by  the  architect  or  person  de- 
signing the  plans  of  the  building. 

The  rules  regarding  the  proper  con- 
struction of  the  work  will  contain  the 
principal  requirements  which,  in  whole  or 
in  part,  should  be  embodied  in  plumbing 
specifications  for  all  kinds  of  buildings. 
It  is,  however,  absolutely  necessary,  in 
order  to  make  such  a  specification  com- 
plete and  adapted  to  any  particular  build- 
ing or  dwelling  house,  that  in  addition  to 
general  requirements  the  specification 
should  contain  a  detailed  enumeration  of 
all  plumbing  appliances  (fixtures,  traps, 
supply  and  waste  pipes,  tanks,  boilers, 
flushing  cisterns,  stop-cocks,  faucets,  et*c.) 
required  in  the  building;  a  detailed  and 
accurate  description  of  the  location  of  the 
plumbing  fixtures,  and  of  the  special  ap- 
paratus wanted,  and  a  minute  description 
of  the  course  of  all  hot  and  cold  water 
service  pipes,  soil,  drain,  waste,  vent,  over- 


92 


flow  and  drip  pipes.  In  every  case  floor 
plans  and  all  needed  sections  of  the  build- 
ing should  be  added,  showing  clearly  the 
proposed  system  of  drainage  and  water 
supply. 

From  a  long  practical  experience  with 
such  details  of  interior  finish  in  newly 
erected  buildings,  I  am  convinced  that  it 
is  quite  important,  in  order  to  secure  good 
results,  to  prepare  a  plumbing  specifica- 
tion with  scrupulous  regard  to  details  and 
with  much  thoroughness  and  exactness. 
It  is  a  great  mistake  on  the  part  of  archi- 
tects or  owners  to  suppose  that  such  rules 
and  regulations,  or  printed  blank  specifi- 
cations, as  the  boards  of  health  in  our  large 
cities  now  require  to  be  filed,  are  suffici- 
ently detailed  to  provent  gross  carelessness 
or  deception  on  the  part  of  unscrupulous 
plumbing  contractors.  Plumbing  regula- 
tions, as  framed  by  boards  of  health,  are 
good  in  their  way,  although  undoubtedly 
susceptible  of  much  improvement.  They 
are  altogether  too  complicated,  too  detailed 
in  many  respects,  while  not  strict  enough 
in  others.  All  those  which  have  come  to 


98 


my  knowledge  permit  certain  things  which 
every  sanitary  engineer  worthy  of  the  name 
absolutely  condemns,  and,  on  the  other 
hand,  they  specify  or  require  tilings,  some 
of  doubtful  utility,  and  others  absolutely 
objectionable,  and  which  no  one  who  has 
impartially  investigated  the  subject  can 
conscientiously  approve. 

The  suggestions  named  under  (C)  refer 
especially  to  householders  and  servants. 
It  has  become  a  recognized  fact  that  a 
properly  constructed  drainage  system  of  a 
house  must  be  intelligently  used,  and  needs 
constant  care  and  attention  on  the  part  of 
the  householder  to  maintain  it  in  good  or- 
der. Especially  is  this  true  of  the  vast 
number  of  houses  occupied  only  during 
a  part  of  the  year,  such  as  summer  resi- 
dences, summer  hotels,  seaside  and  moun- 
tain cottages,  etc.  It  also  refers  to  city 
houses,  many  of  which  are  closed  and  va- 
cated during  the  hot  summer  months. 
How  to  leave  plumbing  work  in  such 
houses  during  winter  and  during  summer, 
without  incurring  the  risk  of  finding,  on 
returning,  that  the  pipes  and  traps  have 


94 

been  frozen  and  burst,  or  that  the  rooms, 
walls,  carpets  and  furniture  are  saturated 
with  sewer  air,  is  a  question  to  which  a 
certain  amount  of  attention  might  with 
advantage  be  paid  by  every  householder. 

A.  Rules  regarding  the  planning  and 
location  of  plumbing  work  in  dwel- 
lings. 

Avoid  a  useless  multiplication  of  plumb- 
ing fixtures.  Let  the  amount  of  plumbing 
work  in  a  house  be  reduced  as  much  as 
possible.  Above  all,  avoid  locating  fix- 
tures in  unoccupied  or  spare  rooms. 

Do  not  place  plumbing  fixtures  of  any 
kind  in  sleeping  rooms,  nor  even  in  unven- 
tilated  closets  adjoining  them. 

Plumbing  fixtures,  especially  water  clos- 
ets, urinals  and  slop  hoppers,  must  always 
be  located  in  well-lighted  and  well-venti- 
lated apartments. 

Always  arrange  fixtures  so  as  to  be  con- 
centrated, as  much  as  is  consistent  with 
convenience-  in  use,  in  compact  groups. 
Have  as  few  vertical  lines  of  pipe  as  possi- 


95 


ble.     Avoid  long  horizontal  runs  of  pipe. 

Arrange  all  plumbing  work  in  a  simple 
manner,  with  as  little  complication  as  is 
attainable. 

In  small  cottages  place  the  bath  room  as 
nearly  as  possible  over  the  kitchen,  in 
order  to  reduce  the  amount  of  piping,  and 
to  simplifiy  the  whole  work. 

In  small  houses  it  is  preferable  to  sepa- 
rate the  water  closet  from  the  bath  room 
and  to  give  to  eaclj  of  them  a  well-lighted 
and  ventilated  apartment. 

In  houses  with  several  toilet  and  dress- 
ing rooms  adjoining  the  bed  rooms,  the 
water  closet,  lavatory  and  bath-tub  may, 
however,  be  arranged  together. 

Avoid  locating  any  fixtures,  such  as 
laundry  tubs  or  servants'  water  closets,  in 
the  cellar. 

Servants'  water  closets,  slophoppers  and 
housemaids'  sinks  should  never  be  located 
in  dark,  out-of-the-way  corners. 

Avoid  locating  any  supply  pipes  on  out- 
side walls,  especially  if  the  house  stands 
detached  and  exposed. 

In  country  houses  occupied   during  the 


96 


winter,  do  not  locate  the  bath  room  and 
the  water  tank  in  that  corner  of  the  build- 
ing which  is  most  exposed  to  the  weather 
and  the  direction  of  the  coldest  wind  (gen- 
erally the  northwest  corner). 

Place  all.  soil,  waste  and  supply  pipes 
outside  of  walls  or  partitions.  Let  pipes 
pass  in  sight  through  closets,  and  leave 
them  fully  exposed  in  bath  rooms. 

Avoid  dead  ends  in  all  except  short 
branch  waste  pipes. 

In  larger  houses  arrange  means  for  draw- 
ing hot  and  cold  water  on  every  floor. 
Provide  a  flushing-rim  slop-hopper  on  bed- 
room floors  for  the  convenience  of  the  ser- 
vants. 

Avoid  having  plumbing  apparatus  on 
floors  where  you  are  not  sure  of  a  constant, 
abundant  and  never-failing  supply  of 
water. 

Openings  in  the  cellar  floor,  connecting 
to  a  house  sewer,  should  be  avoided  as  un- 
safe, even  if  properly  trapped. 

Common  overflow  pipes  and  waste  pipes 
of  fixtures  which  are  not  in  daily  use  are 
objectionable. 


97 

Arrange  all  fixtures,  wherever  possible, 
so  as  to  have  distinctly  independent  out- 
lets into  the  main  soil  pipe  system. 

Quick-emptying  fixtures,  constituting  a 
small  flush  tank  for  the  waste  pipe  at- 
tached to  them,  and  arranged  without  con- 
cealed overflow  channels,  are  preferable  to 
other  kinds. 

Select  plumbing  fixtures  of  a  strong, 
durable,  smooth,  non-absorbent  and  non- 
corrosive  material,  of  a  simple  construc- 
tion, and  with  as  little  movable  mechan- 
ism as  possible.  » 

Arrange  all  fixtures  in  an  open  manner. 
Avoid  carpentry  of  any  kind,  enclosing 
plumbing  apparatus,  as  much  as  possible. 

Avoid  lead  "  safes."  Floors  and  walls 
about  plumbing  fixtures  should  preferably 
be  made  water-tight,  and  covered  with 
slate,  marble  or  encaustic  tiles. 

Wherever  much  grease  is  wasted,  pro- 
vide a  suitable  grease  trap. 

Keep,  as  a  guide  in  case  of  future  exam- 
inations, plans  showing  the  location  of  all 
drain  pipes,  traps,  access  holes,  stop-cocks, 
etc. 


98 

B.    Rules  regarding  the  proper  construc- 
tion of  the  work. 

In  the  following  are  given  the  princi- 
pal requirements,  which,  in  whole  or  in 
part,  should  be  embodied  in  plumbing 
specifications  for  all  kinds  of  buildings. 
The  subject  is  subdivided  under  the  head- 
ings; (1)  General  conditions;  (2)  Mater- 
ials; (3)  Workmanship;  (4)  General  Ar- 
rangement of  the  Work;  (5)  Tests  of  the 
Work  during  Construction  and  after  Com- 
pletion. 

I  desire,  however,  to  have  it  distinctly 
understood  that  the  following  is  in  no 
sense  intended  to  be,  or  to  be  used  as,  a 
general  plumbing  specification,  which  can 
be  copied  verbatim,  or  which,  by  filling  in 
lines  usually  left  blank  for  the  conven- 
ience of  architects,  may  be  readily  adapted 
to  any  kind  of  work.  The  following  notes 
should  only  be  considered  a  help  in  pre- 
paring a  plumbing  specification.  If  intel- 
ligently used,  I  have  no  doubt  they  will 
prove  useful  to  those  who  are  anxious  to 
write  a  good  and  complete  specification. 


99 
1 .    General  Conditions. 

All  the  work  contemplated,  shown  on 
the  floor  plans  and  in  the  sections  of  the 
building,  and  described  in  the  specifica- 
tion, shall  be  done  in  the  best  and  most 
workmanlike  manner,  to  the  satisfaction  of 
the  superintendent  and  of  the  owner. 

The  plumber  must  furnish  all  material 
and  perform  all  labor  required  to  finish 
the  work  contemplated  in  the  specification 
in  a  substantial  manner. 

He  must  do  all  his  work  promptly  as  the 
building  progresses,  and  must  in  particular 
not  delay  other  contractors  nor  interfere 
with  their  work. 

The  contractor  is  not  to  sub-let  the 
whole  or  a  part  of  his  work  without  the 
written  approval  of  the  owner  or  his  rep- 
resentative. 

The  plumber  must  lay  out  his  own  work 
correctly  according  to  the  floor  plans,  and 
is  to  give  his  personal  superintendence  to 
the  work. 

The  superintendent  shall  have  access  to 
the  work  at  all  times,  and  shall  be  sole 


100 

judge  of  the  quality  and  fitness  of  the  ma- 
terials used,  and  of  the  character  of  the 
workmanship. 

No  pipe,  fitting,  or  work  of  any  kind  to 
be  closed  up  or  hidden  from  view  before  it 
has  been  examined  and  approved  by  the 
superintendent.  Any  unfaithful  or  im- 
perfect work,  or  defective  material  that  he 
or  the  owner  may  discover  before  the  work 
is  finally  accepted,  shall  be  immediately 
corrected,  and  any  pipe,  fitting,  trap,  fix- 
ture or  material  of  any  kind  which  in  the 
superintendent's  judgment  does  not  con- 
form with  the  requirements  of  the  specifi- 
cation, shall  be  at  once  removed  and  re- 
placed at  the  contractor's  expense  by  satis- 
factory work  and  material. 

The  plumber  shall  be  guided  in  his  work 
by  both  drawings  and  specifications.  Pref- 
erence must  in  all  cases  be  given  to  figures 
or  memoranda,  and  only  where  these  are 
not  given,  scale  measurements  may  be 
taken.  Wherever  the  specification  varies 
or  conflicts  with  the  drawings,  the  plumb- 
er is  to  be  governed  by  the  specification. 

The   plumber   is    to    obtain    all    official 


101 

permits  required,  pay  the  fees  for  the 
same,  and  is  to  give  to  the  proper  author- 
ities all  notices  required  by  law  relating  to 
his  work. 

All  work  must  conform  with  the  local 
building  and  health  regulations,  and  the 
latter  are  to  be  considered  a  part  of  the 
specification. 

The  plumber  must  see  to  it  that  no  dam- 
age is  done  to  any  part  of  his  own  or  other 
contractors'  work  on  the  building.  He 
will  be  held  responsible  for  all  soiling  of 
walls,  wainscots,  finger  marks  or  other  de- 
facements by  his  workmen.  He  will  see 
that  proper  care  is  taken  in  kindling  fires 
in  the  plumber's  furnace,  and  in  handling 
the  latter  anywhere  in  the  building.* 

The  plumber  must  see  to  it  that  all 
building  rubbish  caused  by  his  operations 
be  removed  from  time  to  time  from  th«? 
building  as  may  be  required.  At  the  com- 
pletion of  the  work  he  is  to  deliver  every- 
thing in  a  clean  condition  and  in  good 
working  order,  and  perfect  in  all  respects. 

*  A  good  clause  to  insert  is  the  following  :  "  No  smoking  or 
spitting  allowed  in  building  after  the  plastering  is  done, 
the  trim  set  and  floors  laid." 


102 

The  contractor  will  be  paid  only  on  cer- 
tificates properly  signed  by  the  superin- 
tendent. 

[Here  should  follow  a  schedule  of  the 
fixtures  required  in  the  building.] 

2.     Materials. 

All  the  materials  used  in  the  work  to  be 
of  the  best  quality  obtainable  in  the  mar- 
ket. 

Earthenware  Drain  Pipes. 

Outside  drains  (beginning  at  a  distance 
of  at  least  five  feet  from  the  house)  to  be 
of  strong,  salt-glazed  earthen  pipes,  either 
pipes  provided  with  hubs  at  one  end,  or 
else  plain  cylindrical  pipes  with  loose 
rings  or  collars  of  unglazed  earthenware. 

All  vitrified  pipes  to  be  perfectly 
straight,  circular  and  true  in  section,  of 
a  uniform  thickness  of  not  less  than  three- 
quarter  inch  for  four  and  six-inch  pipes,  to 
be  free  from  cracks,  flaws,  or  other  de- 
fects, to  be  hard-burnt,  not  brittle,  smooth 


103 

and  impervious  on  the  inside  and  highly 
glazed,  except  at  the  pipe  ends.  Hubs  of 
vitrified  socket  pipes  to  be  not  less  than 
three  inches  deep. 

Earthenware  special  fittings,  such  as  T 
and  Y  branches,  bends,  offsets,  traps,  etc., 
to  be  of  the  same  quality  and  character  as 
specified  for  pipes.* 

Cast-iron  Drain.,  Soil,  Waste,  Vent,  and 
Leader  Pipes  and  Fittings. 

Cast-iron  drain,  soft,  waste, 'vent  and 
leader  pipes  to  be  of  a  homogeneous  tex- 
ture, free  from  flaws,  cracks,  sand-holes  or 
similar  defects,  perfectly  straight,  truly 
cylindrical,  perfectly  smooth  on  the  inside 
and  of  a  uniform  thickness  of  not  less  than 
one-quarter  inch.  Pipes  to  be  the  ordinary 
bell  and  spigot  joints,  with  hubs  of  greakt 
depth  and  strength  of  metal. 

Pipes  to  be  tested  and  inspected  at 
foundry,  and  to  be  afterwards  coated  and 

*  See  also  "  Specification  for  Laying  House  Drains  and 
Pipe  Sewrs  in  the  author's  book,  "  The  Disposal  of  House- 
hold Wastes  *'  No.  97  of  Van  Nostrand's  Science  Series, 
Published  by  D.  Van  Nostrand  Co.  ,  New  York,  1890. 


104 

protected  inside  and  outside  with  coal  tar 
pitch  or  other  equivalent  substance.  Or 
else,  pipes  to  be  dipped  in  metallic  paint, 
or  to  be  enameled  with  black  enamel,  or  to 
be  porcelain-lined  (white  enamel),  as  the 
detailed  specifications  may  require.  The 
superintendent  may,  instead,  require  that 
the  pipes  and  fittings  be  tested  in  his  pres- 
ence by  the  oil  of  kerosene  test. 

All  fittings  for  cast-iron  soil  and  waste 
pipes  to  be  of  best  quality  cast  iron;  all 
castings  to  be  sound,  clean,  smooth,  true, 
free  from  flaws,  cracks,  sand-holes,  air 
bubbles  or  other  imperfections  or  impurities 
in  the  metal.  Thickness  of  shell  to  be  not 
less  than  one-quarter  inch.  Fittings  for 
bell  and  spigot  pipes  to  have  hubs  which 
must  be  very  deep  and  extra  strong.  All 
fittings  to  be  tar  coated  or  enameled,  to 
correspond  with  the  kind  of  pipe  required 
by  the  detailed  specifications. 

Cast-iron  soil  pipes  to  be  four  inches 
inside  diameter,  and  iron  waste  pipes  to 
be  two  inches  diameter,  unless  other  sizes 
are  specifically  called  for.  Drain  pipes  to 


105 

be  from  two  to  six  inches  diameter,  as 
called  for  in  detailed  specifications,  and  as 
indicated  on  the  plans. 

Lead  Pipes. 

All  lead  pipes  to  be  drawn  pipes  of  soft 
pure  lead,  of  the  best  make.  Pipes  to  be 
either  plain  or  tin-lined,  as  may  be  di- 
rected in  detailed  specification. 

Weight  of  lead  pipe  to  be  as  follows : 

a.  Supply  Pipes. 

Inside  Diameter,      f"      J"     f"      }"      1"      lj"      !£" 

For  street  or  tank 
pressure   not   ex- 
ceeding 20  Ibs.  per  Lbs.  per  running  ft. 
square  inch 1       If     2J     3       4       5       (U 

For  street  or  tank 
pressure  exceed-  ^ 
ing  20  Ibs.  per  sq. 
in.,  and  not  ex- 
ceeding 35  Ibs.  per 
square  inch 1J  2  3  4  4f  6  8 

For  pressures  ex- 
ceeding 35  Ibs.  per 
square  inch 2  3  4  5  6  7  9 


106 

b.  Waste,  vent,  overflow  and  drip  pipes, 
also  supply  pipes  from  w.  cl.  cis- 
terns to  10.  cl.  bowls. 

J  incli  lead  pipe  to  weigh  1    Ib.  per  running  ft. 


«      « 
« 


2  «        <*        u      u  5 

3  "        "        "      "  .  6 

" 


Block  Tin  Pipes. 

Suction  pipes  in  wells  or  cisterns  to  be 
of  pure  block  tin,  to  weigh  as  follows: 

Lbs.  per  running  foot. 
}  inch  block  tin  pipe  to  weigh   J 
1  1 


Brass  Pipes. 

All  brass  piping  to  be  made  of  seamless 
drawn  brass  tubing,  with  all  the  necessary 
brass  fittings  required.  Pipes  to  be  either 
plain  (for  hot  water)  or  lined  inside  with 


107 

tin  (for  cold  water).  Outside  of  pipes  to 
be  nickel  plated  and  polished,  or  else,  if 
brass  finished,  pipes  to  be  varnished  with 
a  good  coat  of  shellac,  as  may  be  required 
in  detailed  specifications. 

Wrought-iron  Pipes. 

a.  Supply   Pipes   to    be    either  plain, 
galvanized,    enameled,  linedp-  inside   with 
block  tin,  or  rubber  lined,  or  made  rustless 
by  the  Bower-Barff   process,    as   may   be 
directed    in     the    detailed    specifications. 
Pipes  to  be  uniform  and  true  in  section 
and  pipes  in  sizes  up  to  H  inches  to  be 
butt-welded  and  warranted  to  be  tested  by 
hydraulic  pressure  of  300  pounds  per  square 
inch.     All  necessary  fittings  used  to  have 
the  same  protecting  treatment  as  the  pipes. 
All  fittings  to  be  malleable  iron  fittings.     •* 

b.  /Soil,    Waste  and   Vent   Pipes  to   be 
of   standard   wrought-iron  pipe,  having  a 
uniform  thickness  of  not    less   than    one- 
quarter  inch  ;  pipes  to  be  lap- welded  and 
proved  at  the  iron  mills  to  500  pounds  per 
square  inch  by  hydraulic  pressure  ;    to  be 


108 

coated  after  being  heated,  with  a  prepara- 
tion of  coal  tar  and  asphalt  (or  to  be  treated 
with  the  Bower-Barff  or  other  rustless  pro- 
cess.) Fittings  for  soil  and  waste  pipes  to 
be  protected  against  rust  by  the  same  pro- 
cess as  applied  to  the  pipes  ;  to  be  tapped 
truly  straight  and  to  have  a  strong  shoulder. 

Traps. 

Traps  to  be  of  lead,  brass,  copper  or 
glass,  for  sinks,  basins  and  tubs,  and  to  be 
be  of  iron,  lead,  stoneware  or  earthenware 
under  water  closets  (as  may  be  specified  in 
describing  the  water  closet  apparatus.) 

Traps  of  lead  not  to  be  lighter  in  weight 
and  thickness  of  lead  than  the  waste  pipes 
to  which  they  are  attached.  Drawn  lead 
traps  to  be  preferred  to  cast  lead  traps; 
the  latter,  if  used,  to  be  proved  free  from 
sand-holes,  flaws  or  other  imperfections. 
Traps  for  water  closets  to  have  at  least  one 
inch,  and — except  in  the  case  of  certain 
special  water  closet  constructions  —  not 
more  than  two  inches  water  seal.  All 
other  traps  for  fixtures  to  have  at  least  one 
and  one-half  inch  effective  seal. 


109 

All  traps  to  be  self-cleansing  and  free 
from  corners  or  spaces  favoring  accumula- 
tion of  filth,  and  to  be  of  such  shape  as  to 
hold  as  little  volume  of  water  as  is  con- 
sistent with  a  proper  water  seal. 

Traps  under  fixtures  so  be  provided  with 
cleansing  trap  screws,  placed  below  the 
water  level  in  the  traps,  and  arranged  so 
as  to  be  accessible. 

No  bell  or  D-trap,  or  cesspool  trap,  to  be 
used  anywhere  (special  kind  of  trap  re- 
quired to  be  stated  in  the  detailed  specifi- 
tion). 

Traps  for  house  drains,  leaders,  yard  and 
area  drains  to  be  of  heavy  cast-iron  pro- 
vided with  proper  tightly  closed  cleaning 
hand-holes  and  to  have  a  proper  depth  of 
seal  of  not  less  than  two  inches. 

Stop-cocks,  Valves  and  Faucets. 

Roundway  stop-cocks  to  be  used  on 
main  lines  of  service  pipes,  and  to  be  of  the 
same  inner  diameter  as  their  respective 
pipes.  If  supply  pipes  are  of  wrought 
iron,  brass  full  way  gate  valves,  instead  of 


110 

stop-cocks,  to  be  used.  All  valves,  faucets 
and  stop-cocks  to  be  of  superior  gun  metal 
of  the  heaviest  existing  patterns.  No 
globe  valves  to  be  used. 

Plated  Ware. 

Wherever  brass  is  to  be  plated  the  nickel 
or  silver  plating  (as  specified  in  detailed 
specification)  to  be  of  the  best  kind,  and 
warranted  for  at  least  five  years. 

Solder. 

All  solder  used  on  the  work  to  be  pure, 
soft,  and  free  from  impurities,  such  as  zinc 
or  other  admixture. 

Pig  Lead. 

Lead  for  caulking  purposes  to  be  soft 
and  purfe'pig  lead,  to  be  free  from  any  ad- 
mixture of  antimony,  zinc  or  other  metal. 
No  lead  used  for  caulking  soil  pipes  to  be 
brittle  or  hard  ;  no  scrap  lead  to  be  used. 

Sheet  Lead. 

To  be  of  soft  and  pure  pig  lead,  rolled 


Ill 

in  sheets,  and  to  be  free  from  any  admixture 
of  alloys  or  old  scrap  lead.  Weight  to  be 
not  less  than  four  pounds  per  square  foot. 

Sheet  Copper. 

All  sheet  copper  to  weigh  sixteen  ounces 
per  square  foot,  unless  greater  weight  is 
called  for  in  detailed  specifications,  and  to 
be  well  planished  and 


Patty. 

The  use  of  putty  is  to  be  avoided,  but, 
wherever  needed,  putty  to  be  made  up 
with  pure  linseed  oil,  and  to  be  mixed 
with  some  red  lead,  to  avoid  its  being 
eaten  by  rats. 

Marble. 

All  marble  is  to  be  of  best  Italian  qual- 
ity, blue  veined  and  highly  polished,  un- 
less light  pink  Tennessee  or  other  marble 
is  especially  called  for  tin  the  description 
of  the  plumbing  fixtures.  All  slabs  are  to 
be  properly  molded  and  countersunk.  All 


112 

marble  work  to  be  sharply  molded  and 
well  fitted  and  set,  and,  where  necessary, 
to  be  secured  with  round-head  brass 
screws  and  washers,  the  latter  sunk  in 
flush. 

Fixtures. 

All  fixtures  and  apparatus  to  be  strictly 
of  the  kind  and  character  and  special  make 
as  called  for  in  the  following  detailed  de- 
scription, and  every  fixture  to  be  free  from 
any  defects,  perfect  throughout,  and  put  in 
complete  working  order. 

[Here  should  follow  a  complete  descrip- 
tion of  the  special  appliances  wanted  under 
the  head  of 

Hydrant ;  sillcock ;  furnace  or  steam  boiler 
supply. 

Temporary  cock  in  cellar  to  furnish  water 
for  building  purposes. 

Double-acting  force  pump;  pumping  en- 
gine. 

Water  tank. 

Kitchen  range;  kitchen  boiler;  kitchen 
sink. 


113 

Cistern  pump. 

Wash  trays;  laundry  sink;  laundry  range ; 

clothes  boiler. 
Refrigerator;  ice  sink. 
Water  closets. 
Wash-basins. 
Bath-tubs,   foot-baths,    sitz-bath,     bidets, 

shower-baths,  needle-baths. 
Slop  hopper;  housemaid's  sink. 

Urinal  and  ladies'  urinette.] 

• 

Cement. 

Hydraulic  cement  to  be  any  good,  pure, 
quick-setting  brand,  to  be  fine  and  freshly 
ground;  cement  to  be  subject  to  inspec- 
tion and  testing  by  the  superintendent, 
who  may  reject  all  cement  of  improper 
quality. 

Sand. 

To  be  clean,  sharp,  silicious  sand,  free 
from  all  dirt,  dust  loam^or  other  foreign 
matter. 


114 
Mortar. 

Sand  and  cement  to  be  mixed  dry  and 
to  be  wetted  up  only  in  small  quantities  as 
used,  and  with  just  enough  water  to  make 
a  paste  of  proper  consistency.  Mortar  to 
consist  of  one  part  hydraulic  cement  and 
two  parts  of  sand — measured  quantities. 
No  lime  to  be  used  in  the  mixture,  nor 
should  any  mortar  be  used  that  has  begun 
to  set. 

Concrete. 

Concrete  for  foundations  and  trench 
bottoms  to  be  composed  of  one  part  mortar 
and  five  parts  broken  stone.  The  mortar 
to  be  made  up  as  directed  above,  with 
sufficient  water  only  to  constitute  a  fair 
paste.  The  broken  stone  shall  then  be 
wetted  up  and  mixed  with  the  paste  in  a 
thorough  manner  by  several  turnings  with 
a  shovel.  The  concrete,  after  being  thrown 
in  place,  to  be  tamped  with  wooden  ram- 
mers. No  concrete  left  over  at  the  close  of 
a  day  to  be  used  afterwards  on  the  work. 


115 

3.     WORKMANSHIP. 
^Earthenware  Drain  Pipes. 

If  plain  cylindrical  pipes  are  specified, 
joints  to  be  made  by  means  of  loose  collars 
or  rings  set  in  mortar.  Drain  pipes  to  be 
laid  at  a  depth  of  generally  not  less  than 
three  feet,  in  a  carefully  excavated  trench. 
Trench  to  be  opened  only  as  wide  as  nec- 
essary and  to  be  suitably  bra«ed  wherever 
required,  to  prevent  any  caving  in  of  the 
sides.  Trench  to  have  the  bottom  trimmed 
perfectly  to  the  exact  grade,  and  to  have 
at  each  pipe  joint  a  depression,  in  order  to 
have  each  length  of  pipe  evenly  and  per- 
fectly supported.  Pipes  should  be  laid 
with  ends  butting  close  together.  Cement 
mortar,  mixed  as  per  directions  given,  to 
be  applied  to  the  unglazed  ends  of  the  pipes/ 
and  also  to  the  inside  of  collars.  Pipes  to 
be  joined  in  such  a  manner  that  the  flow 
line  will  be  true  and  even,  in  order  to  pre- 
vent stoppages.  The  inside  of  each  length 
of  pipe  to  be  well  cleaned  before  laying 
down  the  next  length.  Drains  to  be  laid 


116 

in  perfectly  straight  lines,  and  deviations 
from  alignment  to  be  made  with  special 
curves  of  large  radius.  Each  length  of 
pipe  to  be  covered  in  the  center  with  a  few 
inches  of  earth,  in  order  to  steady  it  and 
to  prevent  any  pipes  from  moving.  After 
testing  pipe  joints  with  water,  the  back 
filling  to  be  done  with  great  care,  in  order 
not  to  disturb  the  pipes.  Earth  to  be 
thrown  in  layers  of  not  more  than  twelve 
inches  in  depth,  and  the  filling  to  be  well 
rammed  or  puddled,  to  prevent  the  slightest 
settling.  All  outside  branch  drains  to  join 
the  main  by  Y,  not  T  branches.  Bends  in 
the  lines  of  the  drains  should  never  be  made 
with  straight  pipes.  Pipes  of  different  sizes 
to  be  joined  by  proper  reducing  fittings. 
Long  lines  of  house  drains  to  have  man- 
holes or  inspection  holes  placed  at  suitable 
intervals. 

If  earthen  socket  pipes  are  specified, 
sockets  to  be  examined  with  special  care 
for  cracks  or  flaws,  before  lowering  pipes 
into  the  trench.  Trench  to  be  excavated 
as  described  heretofore.  Special  grooves 
to  be  cut  in  the  bottom  of  the  trench  for 


117 

the  sockets,  in  order  to  give  to  the  pipes  a 
iirm  bearing  throughout  their  entire  length. 
Pipes  to  be  laid  with  the  socket  pointing  up 
grade.  The  space  between  spigot  and  hub, 
if  the  hub  is  deep,  to  be  filled  first  with  a 
small  gasket  of  oakum,  to  prevent  any 
cement  mortar  from  entering  at  the  joints. 
The  remaining  space  to  be  filled  with 
hydraulic  mortar,  which  must  be  applied 
with  particular  care  at  the  Bottom  of  the 
joint.  Water  accumulating  in  the  hollow 
grooves  must  be  removed  before  applying 
mortar  to  the  joint.  Some  cement  to  be 
wiped  at  the  face  of  each  joint,  and  as  soon 
as  the  joint  is  finished,  the  grooves  to  be 
filled  with  earth,  in  order  to  support  the 
cement  at  the  joint  until  the  cement  has 
had  time  to  harden.  The  utmost  care  to  be 
observed  after  a  joint  is  made,  to  prevent 
any  disturbance  of  the  pipes  by  stepping 
on  them,  or  otherwise.  The  inside  of  each 
pipe  joint  to  be  thoroughly  cleaned  from 
any  projecting  oakum  or  cement.  Back 
filling  to  be  done  as  described  heretofore. 
Earthen  pipe  must  always  be  laid  on  a 
firm  bed,  which  should  be  provided  in  case 


118 

of  loose  soils.  A  bed  of  gravel  or  sand,  or 
a  concrete  foundation,  should  be  prepared 
in  such  cases,  to  properly  support  the  pipes. 
Joints  between  earthen  pipes  and  iron 
house  drains  to  be  made  perfectly  tight  by 
means  of  pure  hydraulic  cement.* 

Cast-iron  Pipes. 

All  joints  in  cast-iron  socket  pipe  and 
fittings  to  be  made  by  inserting  a  gasket 
of  picked  oakum  into  the  space  between 
spigot  and  hub,  so  as  to  fill  about  orte-half 
of  the  depth  of  hub,  and  pouring  molten 
soft  lead  from  a  large  ladle  into  the  re- 
maining space.  After  cooling  and  shrink- 
ing, the  lead  to  be  thoroughly  caulked  with 
caulking  tools  to  insure  air  and  water-tight 
joints.  The  face  of  the  caulking  lead  to 
remain  without  paint,  putty  or  cement,  so 
as  to  leave  the  marks  of  the  caulking  tool 
exposed  to  view.  All  joints  made  before 
soil  pipe  and  fittings  are  put  in  place  must 

*  For  a  more  detailed  specification,  the  reader  is  referred 
to  the  author's  book,  "  The  Disposal  of  Household  Wastes,' 
in  the  Van  Nostrand  Science  Series. 


119 

be  re-caulked  when  the  soil  or  waste  pipe 
stack  is  up,  as  they  may  otherwise  become 
loose  from  jars. 

Iron  pipe  lengths  in  a  vertical  position 
to  be  firmly  held  in  place  by  strong, 
wrought  iron  staples  of  round  iron,  or  to 
be  supported  by  strong  pipe  rests  or  sup- 
ports, well-fastened  to  the  walls  and 
placed  under  each  hub.  Where  hung 
from  the  ceiling,  pipes  to  be  held  in  place 
by  improved  iron  pipe  hangers,  securely 
fastened  to  joists,  and  drain  pipes  carried 
above  the  floor,  to  be  supported  at  suitable 
intervals  by  brick  piers.  No  ordinary 
plumber's  hooks  to  be  used. 

Suitable  provision  to  be  made,  espec- 
ially in  very  high  buildings,  for  the  free 
contraction  and  expansion  of  each  vertical 
stack,  by  fastening  the  pipes  in  such  a  man- 
ner that  a  slight  movement  parallel  to  th*e 
pipe  axis  may  take  place,  especially  where 
a  waste  pipe  receives  much  hot  water. 

All  changes  in  direction  to  be  made 
with  bends  of  large  radius,  and  all  branches 
to  be  Y  or  half  Y  branches,  or  curved  Tees 
(the  latter  only  on  upright  lines). 


120 

After  all  pipes  are  put  in  place  they  are 
to  be  cleaned  and  painted,  so  as  to  look 
neat  at  the  completion  of  the  work. 

Lead  Supply  and  Waste  Pipes. 

All  joints  between  lead  pipes,  whether 
for  supply  or  waste  pipes,  to  be  wiped 
solder  joints;  cup  joints  not  to  be  made 
anywhere. 

Joints  between  lead  pipes  and  brass  fit- 
tings, such  as  stop-cocks,  ferrules,  etc.,  to 
be  wiped  solder  joints;  joints  between 
lead  pipes  and  brass  couplings  may  be  cup 
joints. 

Joints  between  lead  pipes  and  cast-iron 
pipes  or  hub  fittings,  to  be  made  by  means 
of  a  brass  or  copper  ferrule,  soldered  to 
the  lead  pipe  and  tightly  caulked  into  the 
iron  hub. 

Joints  between  lead  pipes  and  wrought- 
iron  pipes,  or  tapped  fittings,  to  be  made  by 
means  of  brass  male  and  female  solder- 
ing nipples,  wiped  to  the  lead  pipe,  and 
tightly  screwed  with  a  wrench  into  or  onto 
the  tapped  fitting  or  threaded  pipe. 


121 

Connections  between  earthenware  and 
lead  to  be  made,  as  much  as  possible,  by 
means  of  brass  couplings. 

All  vertical  lead  pipes  to  be  supported 
by  hard  metal  tacks,  placed  at  short  and 
equal  distances,  and  securely  fastened  by 
screws  to  finished  boards  put  up  by  the 
carpenter. 

Horizontal  or  graded  lead  pipes  to  be 
firmly  supported  throughout  their  whole 
length  on  boards,  to  prevent  sagging  and 
trapping,  and  to  be  fastened  and  kept  in 
place  by  brass  bands  (strips  of  sheet  brass 
bent  to  conform  to  the  shape  of  the  pipe) 
placed  at  frequent  intervals  and  fastened 
to  the  boards  by  screws.  Hot-water  pipes 
to  be  fastened,  preferably  by  brass  bands 
only,  not  by  tacks,  so  as  to  allow  for  nec- 
essary expansion  and  contraction.  Hooks 
should  never  be  used  in  fastening  le£d 
pipes. 

Joints  in  tin-lined  lead  pipes  to  be  made 
by  means  of  the  special  tinned  brass  fer- 
rules and  fittings  furnished  with  the  pipe 
by  its  manufacturers.  If  wiped  solder 
joints  are  made,  unusual  care  is  required, 


122 

so  that,  in  applying  the  heated  solder,  the 
tin  may  not  be  melted  and  thus  the  pipe 
lining  be  destroyed. 

Wrought-iron  Pipes. 

Joints  in  wrought-iron  pipes  to  be  made 
with  screw  threads  cut  on  the  ends  of  the 
pipes  and  in  the  shoulder  of  fittings.  All 
threads  to  be  of  standard  gauge.  All  cut 
ends  of  pipe  to  have  the  burr  removed.  A 
thick  paste  of  red  and  white  lead  mixed, 
or  else  linseed  oil,  to  be  used  in  the  joints 
to  act  as  lubricant,  and  to  make  up  for  im- 
perfections in  the  threads.  Pipes  to  be 
screwed  together  tightly  with  wrenches  or 
pipe  tongs,  care  being  taken  that  no  lead 
is  squeezed  out  at  the  inside  of  pipes.  In 
putting  together  wrought-iron  pipes  and 
fittings  treated  with  black  enamel,  a  liquid 
black  enamel  should  be  used  at  the  joints, 
to  protect  the  threads  against  rust. 

Wrought-iron  pipes,  lined  inside  with 
tin,  should  be  joined  by  means  of  the 
special  ferrules  sold  for  such  purpose  with 
the  pipe. 


123 

Horizontal  wrought-iron  pipes  to  be  sup- 
ported by  means  of  special  pipe  hangers. 
All  exposed  vertical  lines  of  iron  supply 
pipes  are  to  be  carried  perfectly  plumb  and 
straight  at  an  even  distance  from  the  walls, 
and  secured  with  galvanized  iron  or  brass 
holdfasts  arranged  so  that  they  can  be 
readily  removed. 

Brass  Pipes. 

All  brass  pipes  and  brass  fittings  to  be 
put  together  with  screw  joints,  a  paste  of 
red  lead  being  put  over  the  threads,  and 
the  joints  made  perfectly  tight  by  means 
of  screw  wrenches.  Brass  pipes  to  be  put 
up  on  boards  and  fastened  by  brass  bands, 
holdfasts  and  escutcheons,  or  to  be  sup- 
ported by  neat  brass  hangers,  varnished  or 
nickel-plated.  No  hooks  to  be  used. 
Long  horizontal  lines  of  brass  service  pipes 
for  hot  water  should  not  be  confined  'at 
ends,  but  should  be  arranged  so  as  to  allow 
of  free  expansion  and  contraction. 

Stop-  Cocks  and  Faucets. 

Joints  between  bibbs  or  stop-cocks  and 
lead  pipes  to  be  wiped  solder  joints;  those 


124 

between  bibbs  or  stop-cocks  and  wrought  - 
iron  or  brass  pipes  to  be  screw  joints. 

Traps. 

All  joints  between  lead  traps  and  lead 
waste  pipes  to  be  wiped  solder  joints, 
made  perfectly  tight.  Joints  between 
lead  traps  and  cast-iron  soil  pipes  or  fit- 
tings to  be  made  with  brass  ferrules,  sol- 
dered to  the  lead  pipe  and  caulked  into 
iron  hubs.  Junctions  between  trap  and 
waste  pipe  to  be  made  perfectly  tight  with 
the  greatest  care.  Junction  between  fix- 
ture and  trap  may  be  made  movable,  to 
facilitate  repairs  of  the  fixture. 

Water-closets  having  traps  located  above 
the  floor  must  have  joints  at  the  floor  with 
the  soil  pipe  made  with  particular  care  by 
means  of  brass  floor  flanges,  in  the  case  of 
earthen,  and  by  means  of  caulked  joints  in 
the  case  of  iron  traps,  so  as  to  be  perfectly 
tight. 

Water  closet  traps  of  iron  or  lead  below 
the  floor  must  have  their  weight  well  sup- 
ported, to  prevent  the  joint  at  the  floor 
from  being  torn  loose  and  becoming  leaky. 


125 

Traps  under  fixtures,  leader  traps,  and 
the  trap  on  the  main  drain  must  be  set  per- 
fectly true  as  regards  their  water  level. 
All  bending  or  tipping  of  lead  traps  set 
between  floor  joists  must  be  avoided.  In 
all  cases  traps  are  to  be  placed  as  close  to 
fixtures  as  possible. 

Fixtures. 

Workmanship  in  fixtures  to  be  of  neat 
appearance  throughout,  whether  work  is 
to  remain  exposed  or  not.  All  fixtures, 
with  the  appliances  belonging  to  them, 
to  be  properly  set  in  good  and  complete 
working  order. 

In  General. 

All  plumbing  work,  whether  to  be  left 
exposed  to  view  or  to  be  boxed  up,  to  fee 
done  in  a  thorough  manner. 

Putty  joints  to  be  avoided  wherever 
feasible. 

All  openings  into  the  pipe  system,  as 
well  as  fixtures  set  in  place,  must  be  'se- 
curely covered  up,  to  prevent  obstruction 


126 

of  the  pipes  or  breakage  of  fixtures  by 
carelessly  or  maliciously  dropped  mater- 
ials. 

The  plumber  must  cut  no  beams,  joists, 
floors  or  studs;  this  will  be  done  for  him 
by  the  carpenter.  Plumber  is  to  arrange 
all  pipes  necessarily  placed  between  joists 
so  as  to  run,  wherever  possible,  parallel  to 
the  direction  of  the  beams.  Pipes  placed 
between  joists  to  be  run  with  proper  grade, 
and  to  be  continuously  supported  on  sound 
boards  nailed  over  strips  tacked  to  the 
joists. 

Where  pipes  pass  through  the  roof,  an 
absolutely  water-tight  joint  to  be  made 
around  pipes.  If  flashings  are  used  for  this 
purpose  they  should  be  at  least  eighteen 
inches  square,  of  heavy  sheet  lead  or  cop- 
per, with  a  funnel  slipped  over  the  pipe, 
turned  over  and  caulked  into  a  hub,  while 
the  ends  of  the  flashing  are  tightly  fastened 
to  the  roof. 

Wherever  plumbers'  pipes  pass  through 
floors,  ceilings*  walls  or  partitions,  the 
plumber  must  see  to  it  that  the  holes  are 
neatly  and  perfectly  closed  around  the 


127 

pipes  in  the  floor,  and  that  the  holes  in  the 
ceiling  be  closed  up  and  well  plastered. 
If  required,  sleeves  of  galvanized  iron  pipe 
are  to  be  used  in  the  case  of  supply  pipes, 
with  neatly-fitted  polished  and  lacquered 
or  nickel-plated  brass  escutcheons  screwed 
on  at  the  floor  and  ceiling,  or  either  side  of 
the  walls,  as  the  case  may  be. 

4.   GENERAL  ARRANGEMENT  OF  PLUMBING 
WORK. 

The  whole  work  to  be  arranged  and 
executed  in  strict  conformance  with  the 
specifications  and  the  floor  plans  and  sec- 
tions, showing  the  plumbing  work  and  in 
particular  the  exact  location  of  every  plumb- 
ing fixture  in  the  building.  Unless  special 
permission  is  obtained  from  the  superjn- 
tendent  to  deviate  from  the  lines  as  laid 
out  in  the  drawings,  these  must  be  strictly 
followed. 

[Here  insert  a  detailed  description  of 
the  course  of  all  soil  and  waste  pipes,  vent 
and  supply  pipes.]  - 


128 
Soil  and  Waste  Pipes. 

All  main  lines  of  drain,  soil,  waste  and 
air  pipes  inside  of  the  building  to  be  of 
heavy  iron ;  short  branch  wastes  and  vents 
from  fixtures  and  traps,  and  branch  supply 
pipes  to  be  of  heavy  lead  pipe. 

All  soil  and  waste  pipes  and  supply  pipes 
to  be  placed  where  shown  on  plans,  and 
their  whole  arrangement  to  be  as  compact 
and  direct  as  possible. 

Each  vertical  stack  of  soil  or  waste  pipe 
to  run  as  straight  as  possible,  avoiding 
offsets,  up  to  the  roof,  and  to  be  continued 
to  a  point  at  least  three  feet  above  the 
same,  so  as  to  have  the  mouth  well  exposed 
to  air  currents.  Extensions  above  the  roof 
to  be  at  least  full  size  in  the  case  of  all  soil 
pipes;  it  is  preferable,  however,  to  enlarge 
soil  pipes  to  six  inches  above  the  roof,  and 
waste  pipes  should  be  enlarged  to  four 
inches  before  passing  through  the  roof. 
None  of  the  pipes  above  the  roof  should  be 
smaller  than  four  inches,  because  smaller 
openings  are  liable  to  clog  and  freeze  up  in 
winter  time. 


129 

Mouths  of  all  soil,  vent  and  waste  pipes 
to  be  kept  at  a  safe  distance  from  ventilat- 
ing shafts,  dormer  windows,  skylights  or 
chimney  flues.  Vertical  pipes  run  along 
chimney  flues  to  terminate  at  least  two 
feet  below  the  top  of  the  flue. 

Mouths  of  all  pipes  above  the  roof  to  be 
kept  wide  open.  No  return  bend,  venti- 
lating cap  or  patent  ventilator  to  be  used. 
Where  obstructions  are  anticipated,  carry 
the  pipe  at  least  six  feet  high,  and  where 
this  is  impracticable,  cover  the  mouth  of 
the  pipe  with  wire  gauze,  or  insert  a  mush- 
room-shaped wire  basket. 

No  soil  or  vent  pipe  to  be  run  to  and 
to  terminate  in  any  hot  or  cold  flue  or 
ventilating  shaft. 

Soil  pipes  receiving  wastes  from  water 
closets  to  be  four  inches  in  diameter,  all 
other  waste  pipes  to  be  two  inches.  No 
deviation  to  be  made  from  these  sizes 
unless  ordered  or  approved  by  the  super- 
intendent. Each  soil  and  waste  pipe  stack 
to  have  proper  fittings  to  receive  branch 
wastes  from  fixtures. 

No  soil,  waste  or  vent  pipe  to  be  con- 


130 

nected  with  any  chimney  flue.  No  soil  or 
waste  pipe  to  be  used  to  carry  rain  water. 
No  trap  to  be  placed  at  the  foot  of  any 
vertical  stack  cf  soil  or  waste  pipe. 

Junction  between  Vertical  Pipes  and  Main 
Drain. 

Junction  between  vertical  stacks  of  soil 
or  waste  pipe  and  main  drain  to  be  made 
with  Y  branches  and  eighth  bends,  or,  at  the 
upper  end,  with  bends  of  easy  sweep. 
Junctions  to  be  supported  by  strong  brick 
piers. 

Main  Drain. 

Main  drain  in  cellar  to  be  kept  above 
the  floor,  in  sight,  unless  otherwise  di- 
rected by  the  superintendent.  Size  of 
main  drain  to  be  not  less  than  four  nor 
more  than  six  inches  in  diameter,  unless 
specially  ordered  by  the  superintendent. 

Grade  of  pipes  in  cellar  or  basement  to 
be  not  less  than  one-quarter  of  an  inch 
nor  more  than  one  inch  to  the  foot,  unless 


131 

by  special  approval  of  the  superintendent. 
All  branches  to  join  the  main  with  Y- 
branches  pointing  in  the  direction  of  the 
flow. 

Cleaning  Hand-holes. 

Cleaning  hand-holes  (closed  tightly  by 
trap  screws)  to  be  provided  near  all  junc- 
tions between  vertical  and  horizontal 
pipes,  and  at  junctions  of  horizontal 
branch  pipes  with  the  main  drain,  also 
near  bends  and  traps. 

Trap  on  Main  Drain. 

Main  drain  to  be  trapped  (unless  the 
trap  is  to  be  omitted  by  special  order  of 
the  superintendent,  in  which  case  the  fresh 
air  inlet  can  be  dispensed  with)  where  it 
leaves  the  house  walls  by  a  running  or  by 
a  i  S-trap  of  iron,  with  proper  cleaning 
hand-holes,  arranged  accessible,  but  not 
exposed  to  freezing.  Over  the  main  trap 
and  all  other  cleaning  hand-holes,  if  below 
the  cellar  floor,  arrange  cast-iron  frames, 
set  in  masonry  or  cement,  and  having 
chequered  iron  covers. 


132 
Fresh-air  Inlet. 

From  just  inside  the  trap  run  a  4-inch 
fresh-air  inlet,  terminating  at  a  point  above 
the  surface,  well  remote  from  windows, 
and  with  opening  protected  against  obstruc- 
tions. (The  superintendent  will  decide 
exact  location  of  the  fresh-air  inlet.) 

Leader  Pipes. 

Vertical  pipes  for  the  removal  of'  rain 
water  from  roofs,  placed  inside  of  the 
building,  must  be  of  cast-iron  or  wrought- 
iron  with  tight  joints.  No  waste  water 
from  any  plumbing  fixture  to  deliver  into 
any  leader  pipe. 

Trapping  of  Leaders. 

Outside  leaders  of  metal  (galvanized 
iron,  copper,  tin),  with  slip  or  soldered 
joints,  and  also  leader  pipes  of  whatever 
material,  whether  located  inside  or  outside 
the  building,  must  be  trapped  in  case  the 
top  opens  below  or  near  windows,  or  near 
flues  or  ventilating  shafts.  Iron  leaders 
with  tight  joints,  with  tops  remote  from 
windows,  are  to  be  left  untrapped. 


133 

Traps  for  leaders  to  have  a  seal  of  more 
than  ordinary  depth,  to  provide  against 
evaporation.  Traps  for  leaders  and  those 
for  yard  and  area  drains  not  to  be  buried 
out  of  sight  or  covered  with  concrete,  but 
to  be  in  all  cases  placed  where  they  are 
protected  against  the  action  of  frost,  in 
easily  accessible  positions,  and  to  be  pro- 
vided with  cleaning  and  inspection  hand- 
holes,  with  well-fitting  and  tight- closing 
covers. 

Drainage  of  Areas  and  Yards. 

Areas,  court  yards  and  paved  open 
spaces  to  be  properly  drained  by  trapped 
branch  drains,  the  trap  to  be  located  pre- 
ferably inside  of  the  cellar  walls,  protected 
against  freezing.  Openings  in  the  yard  or 
area  to  be  covered  with  well  fastened  brass 
strainers  or  iron  gratings,  protected  against 
rust.  No  bell  traps  to  be  used. 

Waste  Pipes  for  Fixtures. 

Each  fixture  to  have  a  separate  and  in- 
dependent connection  to  the  main  soil 


134 

pipe  (unless  otherwise  approved  by  the 
superintendent).  In  no  case  shall  basin  or 
bath  tub  wastes  discharge  into  a  water 
closet  trap  below  the  floor. 

Branch  wastes  from  fixtures  to  be  car- 
ried as  directly  as  possible  to  the  soil  or 
waste  pipe.  Branch  waste  pipes  carried 
under  floors  to  be  as  short  as  practicable, 
and  if  of  lead  to  have  a  continuous  sup- 
port, to  prevent  sagging. 

Trapping  of  Fixtures. 

Each  fixture  connected  to  the  soil  or 
waste-pipe  system  to  be  provided,  as  near 
as  possible  to  its  outlet,  with  a  suitable 
trap  secure  against  siphonage,  back  pres- 
sure, evaporation,  etc.  [The  kind  of  trap 
should  be  specified  in  the  detailed  des- 
cription of  each  apparatus.] 

No  fixtures  to  be  provided  with  more 
than  one  trap.  No  trap  under  a  fixture  to 
be  of  larger  bore  than  the  waste  pipe  to 
which  it  is  attached. 

All  traps  under  fixtures  to  be  arranged 
so  as  to  be  readily  accessible,  and  to  be 


135 

provided  with  cleaning  hand-holes  or  trap- 
screws,  located  below  the  water-line  of  the 
trap. 

Round  pipe  traps  of  the  S,  half  S,  or 
running  shape,  not  to  be  used  unless  pro- 
vided with  a  ventilating  pipe,  or  some 
other  effective  attachment,  to  prevent  si- 
phonage. 

Trap  Vent  Pipes. 

Wherever  vent  pipes  are  used,  the  branch 
vent  pipes  for  water-closet  traps  should  be 
not  less  than  two  inches  in  diameter.  All 
other  traps  to  have  vents  of  same  area  as 
the  trap.  The  size  of  the  main  vertical 
lines  of  vent  pipes  will  depend  upon  the 
height  of  the  building  and  should  also  in- 
crease with  the  number  of  branches  which 
they  receive. 

Where  back  air  pipes  are  carried  through 
the  roof,  they  must  be  enlarged  to  four 
inches,  to  prevent  clogging  in  winter  time 
in  cold  climates.  All  horizontal  air  pipes 
must  be  so  graded  as  to  discharge  the  water 
from  condensation  into  a  trap  or  waste 
pipe.  T- branches  on  upright  vent  lines 


136 

must  always  be  set  at  such  a  height  above 
floor  that  the  branch  vent  cannot  act  as  an 
overflow  pipe  in  case  the  waste  should  be 
stopped  up. 

Size  of  Waste  Pipes. 

Waste  pipes  for  fixtures  to  be  in  size  as 
follows  : 

Inches  inside  diameter. 

For  wash  bowls l?~^i 

For  bath  tubs 1J-2 

For  pantry  sinks l^-lj 

For  kitchen  sinks 1J-2 

For  laundry  tubs 1^-2 

For  slop  sinks 2  -3 

For  urinals 1^-2 

For  a  row  of  basins,  tubs  or  urinals 2  -3 

No  deviation  from  these  sizes  permitted 
unless  specially  ordered  by  the  superin- 
tendent. The  weight  of  these  pipes  to  be 
such  as  called  for  under  "  Materials." 

Overflow  Pipes. 

Overflow  pipes  from  fixtures  must  con- 
nect with  waste  pipes  on  the  inlet  side  of 
traps,  or  they  must  enter  the  trap  below 
the  water  line  or,  finally,  they  may  be 
arranged  similar  to  safe  waste  pipes.  They 
should  be  entirely  avoided  wherever  pos 


137. 

sible,  and  hence  fixtures   without  hidden 
overflow  pipes  are  much  to  be  preferred. 

Strainers. 

Outlets  of  all  set  fixtures,  except  water 
closets,  to  have  fixed  steam  metal  strainers, 
to  guard  against  obstructions. 

Safes  and  Drip  Pipes. 

All  safes,  where  required  under  fixtures, 
to  be  of  of  4-lb.  sheet  lead,  with  edges 
turned  up  at  least  two  inches  all  around  ; 
to  have  a  convex  brass  strainer,  well  sol- 
dered, and  a  1-inch  drip  pipe  of  lead  or 
rustless  wrought-iron  pipe  carried  to  a 
point  where  a  discharge  from  leakage  or 
otherwise  is  readily  detected.  If  run  to 
cellar  celling,  arrangements  to  be  provided 
to  exclude  cellar  air  from  the  drip  pipe. 
The  drip  pipe  may  empty  over  a  sink  or 
cistern,  but  always  so  that  the  discharge 
may  be  in  sight.  In  no  case  should  drip 
pipes  be  connected  with  a  soil  or  waste 
pipe. 

In  most  cases  safes  and  drip  pipes  may 
safely  be  omitted  if  the  work  is  well  done, 
and  all  fixtures  set  in  an  open  manner. 


138 
Flushing  Cisterns. 

Each  water  closet,  urinal  or  slop  hopper 
should  be  supplied  with  water  from  a  special 
copper  or  lead  lined  flushing  cistern.  The 
pipe,  from  the  cistern  to  the  fixture,  must 
never  be  less  than  H  inches  in  diameter 
and  should  be  run  from  the  cistern  to  the 
bowl  as  directly  and  straight  as  possible. 
All  ballcocks  in  flushing  cisterns  must  be 
regulated  so  as  to  work  noiselessly  and 
without  spattering. 

Refrigerator  Wastes. 

Waste  pipes  from  refrigerators  or  ice- 
chests  to  be  trapped,  and  not  to  have  a 
direct  connection  with  any  drain,  soil  or 
waste  pipe.  Arrangements  for  cleaning 
and  flushing  these  pipes  must  be  provided. 

Tank  Overflow. 

Overflow  pipes  from  tanks  must  not  dis- 
charge into  any  soil,  drain  or  waste  pipe. 
They  must  be  run  into  the  roof  gutter,  or 
else  discharge  over  a  sink  in  the  basement, 
or  be  carried  and  emptied  into  the  near- 
est fixture  where  the  discharge  will  be  vis- 
ible. 


139 
Open  Arrangement  of  Fixtures  and  Pipes. 

All  fixtures  to  be  arranged  in  an  open 
manner,  unless  otherwise  directed  by  the 
superintendent. 

All  soil,  waste,  vent,  supply  or  drip  pipes 
to  be  kept  exposed  to  view,  or  to  be  cased 
in  woodwork,  fastened  with  screws  so  that 
the  pipes  may  remain  readily  accessible. 
All  piping  to  be  kept  outside  of  partitions, 
unless  otherwise  ordered  by  the  superin- 
tendent. No  pipes  to  run  between  floors 
and  ceilings  unless  absolutely  necessary. 

All  spaces  about  soil,  waste  or  supply 
pipes,  where  these  pass  through  floors  and 
ceilings,  to  be  closed  absolutely  tight  in  a 
neat  and  substantial  manner. 

Arrangement  of  Supply  Pipes. 

The  whole  arrangement  of  supply  pipes 
to  be  as  compact  as  possible. 

[Here  insert  a  detailed  description  of 
the  water  supply  for  the  proposed  build- 
ing.] 

All  supply  pipes  to  be  kept  outside  of 
floors,  walls  and  partitions,  being  left  ex- 


140 

posed  and  in  full  view,  unless  specially 
otherwise  directed  by  the  superintendent. 
All  exposed  iron  pipes  are  to  be  neatly 
bronzed,  if  required,  with  silver  or  gold 
bronze,  and  varnished. 

No  water  supply  pipes  to  run  on  outside 
walls,  nor  to  be  placed  in  any  position 
where  they  would  be  liable  to  freeze,  unless 
absolutely  necessary,  and  in  this  case  pipes 
to  be  securely  protected  in  exposed  places 
by  some  non-conducting  material,  as  may 
be  required  by  the  superintendent. 

All  horizontal  lines  of  supply  pipes  to  be 
arranged  neatly,  and  laid  out  so  that  they 
will  not  cross  each  other  or  dip  one  under 
the  other.  Supply  pipes  not  to  have  any 
depressions  or  sags,  nor  to  be  bent  up  in 
their  course  to  avoid  their  becoming  air 
bound,  and  causing  an  interruption  in  the 
circulation  in  the  case  of  hot  water  pipes. 

All  supply  pipes  to  be  so  graded  and 
arranged  that  they  may  be  easily  and 
completely  emptied. 

No  check  valves  to  be  used  on  any 
supply  pipes  unless  specially  called  for 
in  the  specifications. 


141 

Hot  and  cold  water  pipes  to  be  kept  at 
least  one-half  inch  apart  everywhere. 

To  prevent  in  jury  to  decorated  walls  and 
ceilings  from  drippings  arising  from  con- 
densation in  warm  weather  along  cold 
water  pipes,  especially  if  of  iron,  pipes 
should  be  carried  across  floors  in  safes 
made  of  zinc,  and  provided  with  a  drip 
pipe  run  to  the  cellar  sink. 

Size  of  Supply  Pipes. 

Branch  supply  pipes  to  fixtures  to  hare 
the  following  sizes,  unless  otherwise  di- 
rected : 

For  wash  bowls  \  inch  bore. 

For  bath  tubs f         " 

For  pantry  sinks  f         " 

For  kitchen  sinks f         " 

For  laundry  tubs   f 

For  slop  hoppers  (to  draw  water)...  f 

For  flushing  cisterns J         ' ' 

For  flushing  pipes  from  cisterns  to 

water  closets,    urinals    or    slop 

hoppers li-lj  lk 

For   weight  of  pipes,  see  under  "Material." 
Where  a  branch  pipe  supplies  more  than  one 

fixture,  it  should  be  increased  in  sectional 

area  proportionately. 


142 

Rising  main  to  be  at  least  f  inch  in  size ; 
direct  branches  from  it  to  be  of  the  same 
size,  and  pipe  from  tank  to  boiler  to  be  not 
less  than  f  inch.  Connections  between 
water  back  in  range  and  boiler  to  be  made 
with  |  inch  (better  1-inch)  brass  or  stout 
brazed  copper  pipes. 

Hot  Water  Supply. 

Hot  water  boilers,  wherever  practicable, 
to  be  supplied  from  a  tank  in  the  attic,  not 
from  street  pressure.  Main  hot  water  pipe 
must  always  be  extended  from  above  the 
highest  fixture  full  size  to  the  top  of  the 
tank,  where  it  should  be  turned  over  to 
allow  steam  to  escape ;  also  to  prevent  the 
collapse  of  the  boiler. 

Stop- cocks. 

Stop-cocks  for  both  the  hot  and  cold 
water  supply  to  be  arranged  near  each 
fixture  (also  near  each  flushing  cistern),  to 
shut  off  the  water  separately  from  each 
fixture  if  required. 

All  branch  supply  pipes  to  be  arranged 


143 

so  as  to  be  shut  off  separately  by  stop- 
cocks or  gate  valves,  and,  if  required, 
to  be  arranged  so  that  they  may,  each 
separately,  be  completely  drained. 

All  stop-cocks  on  supply  pipes  to  be  ar- 
ranged easy  of  access. 

Faucets,  especially  ground-key  and  self- 
closing  bibbs,  not  to  be  placed  at  the  end 
of  a  line  of  supply  pipe,  but  to  be  taken 
from  the  side  of  the  pipe,  and  the  pipe  to 
be  continued  so  as  to  form  a  small  air 
chamber. 

5.    TESTS  OF  THE  WORK  DURING  CONSTRUC- 
TION AND  AFTER  COMPLETION. 

Test  of  Earthen  House  Sewer. 

Before  refilling  the  trenches  for  outside 
drains  the  earthen  sewer  pipe  and  its  joints 
to  be  tested  by  closing  the  main  outlet  and 
filling  the  sewer  with  water  so  as  $o  have  a 
pressure  corresponding  to  at  least  two  feet 
head  of  water  at  its  upper  end,  and  all 
joints  to  be  proven  tight  to  the  satisfaction 
of  the  superintendent. 


144 
Test  of  Pipe  System  inside  the  House. 

After  the  completion  of  all  the  piping  in 
the  house,  and  before  any  fixtures  are  con- 
nected, the  tightness  of  joints  and  sound- 
ness of  pipes  to  be  tested.  All  openings 
of  waste,  soil  and  vent  pipes  and  the  outer 
end  of  house  sewer  to  be  securely  closed, 
and  the  whole  system  of  piping  to  be  filled 
with  water,  which  must  remain  at  the  same 
level  for  at  least  12  hours.  In  winter  time 
other  tests  —  smoke  test,  peppermint  or 
fumes  of  sulphur  test,  pressure  test  with 
force  pump  and  manometer — to  be  substi- 
tuted for  the  water  pressure  test.  If  any 
of  these  tests  reveal  a  leak  the  defect  is  to 
to  be  made  good,  and  pipes  will  again  be 
tested  until  the  system  is  proved  gas  and 
water-tight  to  the  satisfaction  of  the  super- 
intendent. 

Test  of  Supply  Pipes. 

All  iron  and  brass  supply  pipes  are  to  be 
tested  with  pressure  pump  and  mercury 
gauge,  and  all  defective  pipes  and  fittings 
removed  and  replaced  by  sound  material, 
and  all  leaky  joints  made  tight. 


145 

Final  Test  of  the  Completed  Work. 

The  whole  plumbing  work  is  to  be  tested 
after  completion  by  turning  the  water  into 
the  pipes,  fixtures  and  traps  every  where,  in 
order  to  detect  imperfect  joints  or  bad 
pipes,  or  holes  caused  by  careless  driving 
of  nails. 

The  whole  system  is,  finally,  to  be  tested 
in  the  presence  of  the  superintendent  by 
the  oil  of  peppermint  test,  or  fumes  of 
burning  sulphur,  introduced  by  means  of 
an  "  asphyxiator."  Any  defects  found  to 
be  at  once  repaired  by  the  plumber,  who  is 
to  bear  the  whole  expense,  and  all  to  be  left 
in  perfect  working  order  and  warranted 
for years.* 

C.  Rules  regarding  the  proper  Gare  and 
Management  of  Plumbing  Appar- 
atus. 

Even  the  best  sanitary  appliances,  dis- 
charging quickly  through  self-cleansing 

*  Verj  often  the  gas-fitting  work  is  included  in  the 
plumbing  specification.  For  a  description  of  gas  fitting 
work,  the  reader  is  referred  to  the  author's  book  in  D.  Van 
Nostrand's  Science  Series,  entitled,  Notes  on  Gas  Lighting 
and  Gas  Fitting,  with  a  Specification  for  Gas  Piping  and 
Some  Hints  to  Gas  Consumers. 


146 

traps  and  well  ventilated  and  abundantly 
flushed  waste  pipes,  need  constant  care  and 
frequent  cleaning. 

Plumbing  fixtures,  and  all  traps,  soil, 
drain  and  waste  pipes,  require  periodical 
inspection,  same  as  a  steam  boiler  or  other 
machinery.  In  order  to  be  readily  in- 
spected they  should  be  kept  accessible. 
Therefore  avoid  all  enclosure  of  the  plumb- 
ing work. 

The  whole  security  of  plumbing  work 
lies  in  thorough  workmanship,  good  ma- 
terials, safe  trapping,  abundant  flushing, 
constant  ventilation  and  absolute  purity. 

The  water  in  traps  under  any  kind  of 
plumbing  fixture  must  be  frequently 
changed. 

Stagnation  of  water  or  air  should  be 
avoided,  not  only  in  the  drains  and  vent 
pipes,  but  in  traps  as  well. 

A  judicious  use  of  the  fixtures  and  prop- 
er cleanliness  are  indispensable  to  keep 
plumbing  apparatus  in  a  sweet  and  whole- 
some condition. 

Water  closets  and  slop  hoppers  in  par- 
ticular, but  other  plumbing  fixtures  not 


147 

to  any  less  extent,  should  be  thoroughly 
cleaned  and  scrubbed  with  soap,  hot  water 
and  a  scrubbing  brush,  at  least  once  a 
week,  and  as  much  oftener  as  possible. 

The  same  care  and  treatment  should  be 
applied  to  the  floors  and  walls  surround- 
ing the  closet,  and  to  the  woodwork  of  the 
seat.  Hence  it  is  important,  in  order  to 
facilitate^  cleaning  operations,  to  arrange 
all  plumbing  work  in  an  open  manner. 

Even  where  fixtures  are  cased  up  with 
ornamental  woodwork,  let  the  parts  be 
readily  removable  ;  avoid  nailed  carpen- 
try, and  never  allow  any  accumulation  of 
rags  or  rubbish  of  any  kind  under  the 
water  closets,  basins  or  sinks. 

After  cleansing  the  sides  of  bath  and 
laundry  tubs  and  wash  basins,  let  clean 
water  from  the  faucets  run  for  some  time 
into  the  fixtures,  in  order  to  change  com- 
pletely the  water  standing  in  the  trap. 

After  pouring  out  slop  jars  or  pails  into 
slop  hoppers,  always  flush  the  fixture  and 
its  trap  by  one  or  more  discharges  from 
the  flushing  cistern. 

If  you   have  plumbing  work   in   spare 


148 

rooms,  closets  or  guests'  bedrooms,  let 
some  one  of  the  household  make  it  a  daily 
practice  to  turn  on  the  water,  to  make  sure 
that  the  traps  are  constantly  filled. 

If  much  grease  is  emptied  through 
kitchen  or  pantry  sinks,  it  is  advisable  to 
rinse  occasionally  the  waste  pipes  and 
traps  by  pouring  through  them  a  hot  and 
concentrated  solution  of  potash. 

In  leaving  a  city  house  for  the  summer 
months,  when  evaporation  of  water  in 
traps  is  most  active,  especially  with  vented 
traps,  all  overflow  holes  in  wash  bowls, 
pantry  sinks  and  bath  tubs  should  be 
closed  by  corks,  or  by  pasting  paper  over 
the  openings,  then  close  the  outlets  with 
plugs  and  fill  basins  and  tubs  with  water 
to  near  the  overflow  line.  In  the  case  of 
kitchen  sinks  it  is  best  to  remove  the  open 
strainer,  substituting  a  plug  strainer,  clos- 
ing the  outlet  with  a  plug  and  filling  the 
sink  with  water.  Wash-tubs  may  be  sim- 
ilarly protected  by  closing  the  outlets  and 
filling  the  tubs  with  water.  Fixtures 
without  overflow  pipes  (with  stand  pipe 
outlets)  are  more  easily  protected  than 


149 

those  in  common  use,  and  are  preferable 
on  this  as  well  as  on  many  other  accounts. 
In  case  of  slop  hoppers  and  water  closets, 
it  becomes  necessary  to  dip  out  all  water 
from  the  trap  and  to  fill  the  trap  with 
glycerine  or  oil,  or  a  solution  of  chloride 
of  calcium.  Water  closets  and  slop  hop- 
pers flushed  from  automatic  siphon  or 
tilting  tanks  may  continue  to  receive  the 
flush  at  intervals,  provided  their  branch 
supply  pipe  is  taken  out  in  such  a  manner 
that  it  will  not  interfere  with  the  shutting 
off  of  the  water  in  the  remaining  parts  of 
the  house.  Trap  attachments  may  also  be 
had  which  continue  to  keep  the  trap  filled 
with  water  up  to  the  proper  water  level,  if 
evaporation  or  loss  by  siphonage  or  capil- 
lary attraction  should  take  place. 

In  leaving  a  country  residence  for  the 
winter,  it  is  of  the  utmost  importance  Jto 
remove  completely  all  water  from  all  sup- 
ply and  waste  pipes,  traps,  fixtures  and 
cisterns,  so  that  nothing  can  freeze.  Hence 
it  is  very  necessary  in  the  case  of  country 
houses  to  run  all  pipes  with  such  a  con- 
tinuous grade  that  they  may  be  completely 


150 

drained  and  emptied.  The  water  supply 
should  be  thoroughly  shut  off  in  the  base- 
ment or  cellar,  taking  care  to  open  all 
faucets  and '  stop-cocks  at  fixtures.  The 
kitchen  boiler  must  be  completely  emptied 
by  means  of  the  sediment  cock,  and  also 
the  water  tank  in  the  attic.  Next  remove 
the  water  from  all  water  closet  and  slop 
hopper  cisterns.  Traps  under  fixtures  may 
be  emptied  by  means  of  the  brass  trap 
screws  usually  provided,  at  the  lowest  point 
of  the  trap,  or  by  removing  the  cleanout 
caps,  or  else  by  using  a  sponge.  All  over- 
flows must  be  closed,  the  traps  filled  with 
glycerine,  and  the  outlets  of  fixtures  closed 
with  plugs  as  previously  described.  Water 
closet  traps  should  be  filled  with  a  strong 
salt  solution,  to  which  may  be  added  some 
calcium  chloride.  As  an  additional  security 
the  trap  may  be  boxed  up,  and  the  box 
filled  with  sawdust. 


V. 

MEMORANDA 

ON   THE 

COST 

OF 

PLUMBING   WORK. 


MEMORANDA 

ON 

THE  COST  OF  PLUMBING  WORK, 


While  this  volume  was  going  through 
the  press  it  occurred  to  me  that  a  few 
notes  on  the  cost  of  work,  of  such  a  char- 
acter as  is  described  in  the  preceding 
pages,  and  as  is  now  required  in  the  best 
examples  of  drainage  and  plumbing  of 
buildings,  would  be  of  particular  useful- 
ness to  architects,  to  their  clients,  and  to  all 
people  contemplating  the  remodeling  of 
their  plumbing  work. 

What  moves  me  particularly  to  publish 
some  memoranda  regarding  the  appiwxi- 
mate  expense  of  such  work  is  the  fact  that 
there  seem  still  to  exist  in  many  quarters 
very  vague  ideas  on  this  point.  The  ma- 
jority of  people  who  build  houses  wrill  in- 
sist upon  having  numerous  and  elaborate 
plumbing  appliances.  Generally,  how- 


154 

ever,  on  receiving  bids  for  the  work  they 
are  disagreeably  surprised  about  the  "  ex- 
orbitant "  figures  asked  for.  Such  people 
should  remember  that  plumbing  and  drain- 
age work  of  the  best  character  will  cost 
more  than  the  flimsy,  unsanitary  work 
put,  until  recently,  into  most  houses,  and 
in  particular  into  those  erected  by  unscru- 
pulous contractors,  or  by  the  cheap  or 
speculative  builders.  It  is  useless  and 
wrong  to  make  careless  statements,  such 
as  the  following,  which  I  find  in  a  recent 
architectural  publication : 

"  In  an  ordinary  household,  numbering 
six  or  eight  persons,  occupying  an  average 
dwelling,  there  will  usually  be  a  single 
Ibath  room,  two  water  closets,  one  up 
stairs,  and  one  for  the  use  of  domestics,  a 
kitchen  sink  and  hot  water  boiler,  wash 
trays,  butler's  pantry  sink,  and  from  one 
to  five  stationary  wash  basins,  while  if  the 
water  pressure  is  deficient  in  the  city,  or 
if  in  the  country  the  roof  water  is  stored 
ror  family  consumption,  a  tank  or  cistern 
will  be  required.  In  such  a  dwelling  a 
four-inch  soil  pipe  will  be  ample  for  .the 


155 

drainage  from  the  principal  fixtures,  and 
a  two-inch  cast-iron  waste  pipe  from  the 
basins,  if  any  are  located  at  a  distance 
from  the  main  lines.  There  will  also  be 
need  for  a  two-inch  waste  from  the  kitch- 
en fixtures,  together  with  a  five-inch  rain 
leader,  and  connections  from  surface  cess- 
pools in  the  front  and  back  yards.  All 
these  pipes  will  discharge  into  a  five-inch 
main  drain  leading  to  the  sewer  or  cess- 
pool. To  plumb  a  house  of  this  grade  will 
cost  in  the  neighborhood  of  three  hundred 
dollars"  (The  italics  are  mine.) 

Such  statements  are  apt  to  do  a  great 
deal  of  injustice  and  even  harm  to  respect- 
able plumbing  contractors  who  strive  to  do 
work  of  a  high  character,  and  do  not  ex- 
pect to  make  more  than  a  legitimate  profit 
on  their  contracts.  It  is  absurd  to  expect 
the  work  enumerated  in  the  particular 'ex- 
ample quoted  to  be  done  in  a  proper  man- 
ner at  such  a  low  figure.  Twice  the  sum, 
named  would,  from  my  judgment  and  ex- 
perience, be  a  moderate  and  tolerably 
correct  estimate  of  cost,  and  even  this 
would  suppose  the  work  to  be  of  a  plain 


156 

character,   although    satisfactory    from  a 
sanitary  point  of  view. 

The  figures  given  below  apply  to  fix- 
tures, completely  put  up,  with  their  sup- 
ply and  waste  pipes,  traps,  vents,  water 
fittings,  such  as  faucets  and  stop-cocks, 
including  all  labor  on  same : 

Drain  and  Soil  Pipes  (fittings  included) : 

4"  pipe,  extra  heavy $1.00  per  ft. 

5"     "  "  1.25      '• 

6"    "  "  1.50      " 

Vent  and  Waste  Pipes  : 

2"  pipe,  extra  heavy 50      * 

3"     "  "          75       " 

Main  Trap  with  Manhole  and  Cover $10.00 

Leader  Traps,  4"  3.00 

5" 4.00 

Cesspools  in  Areas 2.00 

Double-acting  Force  and  Lift  Pump... .  35.00 

Hand  or  Cistern  Pump 10.00 

Ericsson  Caloric  Pumping  Engine,  6-inch, 

about 250.00 

Rider  Pumping  Engine,  6-inch,  about... 450. 00 

Gallons. 

Tank,  of  wood,          100      200    300     ±00      500     GOO 

copper  lined,  $15    $30    $40    $50    $60   $70 

Wrought  iron,   painted,    $50   $65    $75    $85    $95 


157 

Fittings  for  water  tank  complete,  includ- 
ing ball-cock,  stop-cock,  overflow, 
blow-off,  cistern  valve $20.00 


Kitchen  Boiler,  with  water  back  connections, 
all  necessary  couplings,  stop-cocks  and  boiler 
stand  complete 

Gallons. 
30       40         50        60        70         80        100 

Of  galv.  iron.... $30   $35   $45   $50   $55   $60   $70 
Of  copper 40      50    —       75      —      90   120 

Kitchen  Sink,  of  cast-iron,  completely 
fitted  up,    according  to  length  and 

pattern,  from $15  to  $25 

Add  for  galv.  and  enameling  sink....  10  to  15 

Of  soapstone,  from 20  to  35 

Of  slate,  from 18  to  30 

Of  earthenware,  from 25  to  40 

Butler's  Pantry  Sink, 

Of  copper  (24  oz.),  from $20  to  §30 

Of  enameled  iron,  from 20to  30 

Of  steel,  painted 15  to  25 

enameled 25  to  35 

Of  porcelain,   from 30  to  40 

Of  German  silver 30  to  35 

Add  for  waste  valves  or  stand  pipe 

overflow 10  to  15 


158 

Laundry   Tubs,   each  tub  fitted    up   completely. 

Of  wood $12 

Of  slate 20 

Of  cement 25 

Of  artificial  stone 15 

Of  soapstone 30 

Of  cast  iron  (rustless) 18 

Of  porcelain,  American 38 

Of  earthenware,  imported 45 

For  a  set  of  two  deduct  5  per  cent,  from  twice 
above  sum. 

For  a  set  of  three  deduct  10  per  cent,  from  three 
times  above  sum. 
Water  Closets. 

Flushing-rim    short    hoppers,    completely 
fitted     up,    excluding    wood-work    and 

tiling , $50 

Improved  washout  closets 60 

Improved  hopper  and  siphon  closets 75 

Tiling  for  water  closet  walls  and  floors  per 

square  foot,  complete,  about 1. 50 

Slate  or  marble  floor  slabs,  per  square  foot, 

about 2.00 

Water  closet  seats  (without  covers) $5  to  $10 

Bidet  attachment 5  to    10 

Gas  jet  ventilator  attachment 10  to  15 

Bathtubs,  of  copper,  16  oz $30 

18  oz 35 

20  oz 40 

if  fitted  with  chain  and  plug. 


159 

Add  for  waste  valve  or  stand  pipe  overflow $15 

Enameled  iron  bath  tub 75 

Porcelain  tub $180  to  $200 

Slop  Hopper,  Improved  earthenware, 
flushing  rim  slop  hopper,  with  cis- 
tern, marble  back,  etc $75  to  $100 

Urinals.   Lipped  Bedfordshire  urinals, 

each  fitted  with  flushing  cistern $30  to  $40 

Urinal  stalls,  of  slate,  for  each  stall 45 

of  marble, 55 

Ladietf  Urinette.     All  porcelain,   with 

flushing  cistern,  complete, $75  to  $90 

Ladies'  Bidet.  Complete 60  to  80 

Wash  Basins.  Ordinary  wash  bowls, 

chain  and  plug,  round $30  to  $35 

oval 33  to  38 

Improved  waste  valve  or  stand  pipe 

basin,  round 40  to  45 

oval 45  to  50 

Water  Supply  Pipes  (main  lines). 

For  these  a  suitable  sum  should  be  added  in  the 
estimate.  The  amount  will  depend  on  sizes^  and 
material  of  supply  pipes,  size  and  number  of  sto- 
ries of  house,  etc. 

For  general  and  preliminary  estimates  a  rough 
idea  of  the  cost  of  the  work  may  be  obtained  by 
the  following  rule  :  Count  number  of  fixtures  or 
set  of  fixtures  (counting  the  boiler  and  tank  in)  and 
multiply  same 


160 

with  50  for  ordinary,  plain  plumbing,  iron  supply 

pipes,  plain  but  sanitary  fixtures  ; 
with  60  for  very  good,  but  plain  plumbing,  i.  e. , 

best  workmanship  but  plain  fixtures  ; 
with  75  for  best  quality  plumbing  materials,  lead 

supply  pipes,  very  best  workmanship  ; 
with  100  for  very  extensive  and  elaborate  plumb- 
ing, including  brass  hot  water  pipes,  nickel- 
plated  holdfasts,  including  marble  slabs 
and  backs,  but  excluding  all  marble  slate  or 
tile  work  for  floors  and  walls  and  parti- 
tions : 

with  125  to  150  for  most  complete  work,  fitted 
up  with  nickel-plated  brass  piping  through- 
out, and  fixtures  of  the  most  expensive 
kind,  including  marble  floor  slabs  and  cab- 
inet-finished, brass-trimmed,  or  marble - 
encased  cisterns. 
The  product  represents  in  dollars  the  approximate 

cost  of  the  work. 

The  cost  of  hot-air  pumping  engines  is,  of  course, 
not  included,  and  while  the  above  figure  covers 
cost  of  all  connections  between  water  back  and 
boiler,  it  does  not  include  the  range  nor  any  cab- 
inet work  in  bath  rooms,  etc. 

Where  anti-siphon  traps  are  used  under  fixtures, 
and  vent  pipes  are  accordingly  omitted  every- 
where, the  main  system  being  very  amply  vented, 
the  cost  is  reduced  from  7  to  10  per  cent,  from 
above  figures. 


VI. 
SUGGESTIONS 

FOE  A 

SANITARY  CODE 


SUGGESTIONS  FOR  A  SANITARY  CODE. 


A. — Joules  as  to  Healthful  Building  Con- 
struction. 

1.  It  shall  be  considered  unlawful  here- 
after to  erect  or  cause  to  be  erected  a  new 
building   upon  any  site   which  has  been 
filled  up  with  house  refuse  or  any  kind  of 
animal   or  vegetable   matter,  unless  such 
matter  shall  have  been  properly  removed 
from  such  site. 

2.  It  shall  be  considered  unlawful  here- 
after to  erect   or  cause  to  be  erected  any 
new  buildings  or  structures  of  any  kind 
upon  any  damp  or  wet   site,  unless  such 
site  shall  have  been  effectually  drained  by 
means  of  suitable  properly  laid  earthen- 
ware tile  pipes. 

3.  It  shall  be  considered  unlawful  to  lay 
such  drain  pipes  in  such  a  manner  as  to 
communicate     directly     with    any    drain 
carrying  foul  sewage,  or  with   a  sewer  or 
cesspool. 


164 

4.  The  drainage  of  the  subsoil  of  build- 
ings shall  conform  to  the  following  regu- 
lations and  requirements : 

a.  The  subsoil  drains  shall  be  laid,  if  pos- 

sible, at  a  depth  of  not  less  than  two 
feet  below  the  cellar  floor. 

b.  They  shall   be  laid  with   open  joints, 

protected  against  entrance  of  dirt  or 
vermin  by  paper  or  muslin  wrapping 
or  collars. 

c.  They  shall  be  laid  on  a  true  grade,  with 

perfect  alignment  and  with  a  contin- 
uous fall  towards  the  outfall. 

d.  The  outfall  shall  be  either  directly  into 

the  open  air,  or  into  a  ditch  or  road 
gutter. 

NOTE.— If  connection  must  necessarily  be  made  with  a 
sewer,  arrangements  shall  be  made  for  perfect  disconn  ec- 
tion,  and  the  water  seal  of  the  trap  must  be  maintained, 
even  in  the  driest  seasons,  by  suitable  arrangements,  ap- 
proved by  the  inspector. 

5.  Wherever  the  building  site  is  damp, 
the  cellar  floor  shall  be  constructed  with 
at  least  six  inches  of  concrete.     It  is  rec- 
ommended to  put  on  top  of  this  a    thin 
coating  of  coal  tar  pitch  or  asphalt,  and  to 


165 

finish  it  on  top  with  a  layer  of  Portland 
cement. 

It  is  recommended  that  every  wall  of 
new  buildings  be  provided  with  a  damp- 
proof  course  of  proper  material,  placed 
above  the  level  of  the  ground,  and  also 
that  the  outside  and  inside  of  the  founda- 
tion wall,  to  the  height  of  the  damp-proof 
course,  be  coated  with  coal  tar  pitch  or 
asphaltum. 

It  is  recommended  to  whitewash  the 
cellar  walls  of  all  buildings  at  least  twice 
a  year. 

6.  Buildings  without  basement  or  cel- 
lar shall  be  placed  on  brick  or  stone  piers 
or  posts,  and  the  floor  of  the  first  story 
shall  be  raised  so  as  to  be  at  least  two 
feet  above  the  surface  of  the  ground. 
There  shall  be  a  free  circulation  of  air 
underneath  the  floor,  and  between  it  and* 
the  surface  of  the  ground. 

B. — Rules  as  to  Connection  between  House 
Drains  and  Street  Sewers. 

1.  It  shall  be  considered  unlawful  to 
connect  or  cause  to  be  connected,  any 


16(5 

private  drain  with  a  street  sewer,  without 
first  obtaining  a  permit  from  the  proper 
authorities. 

2.  It  shall  be  considered  unlawful  here- 
after to  construct  any  drain  for  any  build- 
ing and  to  connect  the  same  to  a  street 
sewer,  unless  the  drain  shall  in  its  plan 
and  construction  conform  to  the  following 
requirements : 

a.  Each  building   shall  have   a   separate 

connection  with  the  street  sewer. 

b.  Wherever  junction   pieces   have   been 

built  into  the  sewer  they  must  be 
used  for  making  said  connection,  un- 
less special  permission  is  obtained  to 
cut  the  sewer. 

c.  No  pipe  or  other  materials  for  drains 

shall  be  used  until  they  have  been  ex- 
amined and  approved  by  the  authori- 
ties, or  their  duly  appointed  superin- 
tendent or  inspector.  No  house  drain 
to  be  larger  than  five  inches  inside 
diameter,  except  by  special  permis- 
sion. 

d.  No  street   shall   be   opened   until   the 


167 

junction  piece  in  the   sewer  has  been 
located  by  the  superintendent. 

e.  If  no  junction  pieces  are  built  into  the 
sewer,  a  connection  shall  be  made  by 
inserting  into  a  brick  sewer  a  junction 
pipe  of  proper  size,  and  cut  slant  to 
an  angle  of  forty-five  degrees  by  the 
manufacturer.  Great  care  must  be 
taken  not  to  injure  the  sewer,  and  all 
rubbish  shall  be  carefully  removed 
from  its  inside. 

/.  In  connecting  a  house  drain  with  a  pipe 
sewer,  a  Y  junction  must  be  inserted 
in  the  line  of  the  sewer,  and  the  main 
sewer  left  in  a  good  condition. 

gt  In  all  cases  the  trench  must  be  opened 
to  the  point  of  connection  without 
tunneling,  so  as  to  allow  of  an  easy 
inspection. 

h.  In  opening  any  street  or  public  way  all* 
materials  shall  be  placed  where  they 
will  cause  the  least  inconvenience  to 
the  public,  and  the  whole  inclosed 
with  sufficient  barriers,  and  properly 
lighted  at  night  from  the  beginning 
to  the  end  of  the  work. 


168 

L  The  least  inclination  of  the  house  drain 
shall  be  1  in  60,  unless  a  written  per- 
mit is  obtained  to  lay  the  house  drain 
to  a  lesser  grade. 

k.  When  the  course  of  the  house  drain  is 
not  the  same  as  that  of  the  junction 
piece,  it  must  be  connected  therewith 
by  a  curve  of  not  less  than  ten  feet 
radius.  All  changes  of  direction  to 
be  made  with  curved  pipe,  and  in 
no  case  must  a  pipe  be  clipped. 

I.  Every  joint  shall  be  laid  with  gasket 
and  cement,  and  bedded  in  hydraulic 
concrete  at  least  four  inches  in  depth. 

m.  The  ends  of  all  pipes  not  to  be  imme- 
diately connected  shall  be  securely 
closed,  water-tight,  and  guarded 
against  entrance  of  earth  with  im- 
perishable materials.  The  inside  of 
every  drain,  after  it  is  laid,  must  be 
left  smooth  and  perfectly  clean 
throughout  its  entire  length,  and  true 
in  line  and  grade. 

n.  The  back-filling  over  drains,  after  they 
are  laid,  shall  be  puddled  or  rammed, 
all  water  and  gas  pipes  protected  from 


169 

injury  or  settling,  and  the  surface  of 
the  street  made  good  within  forty- 
eight  hours  after  the  completion  of 
that  part  of  the  drain  lying  within 
the  public  way. 

o.  No  privy  vault  or  cesspool  shall  be 
connected  with  the  house  drain  or 
sewer. 

C. — Plumbing  ^Regulations. 

1.  No  plumbing  work  of  any  kind  shall 
hereafter  be  constructed  in  any   building,, 
nor   connection   made    between   a   house 
drain  and  a  street  sewer,  unless  said  work 
shall  be  made  to  conform  strictly  to  the 
following  requirements : 
a.  The  house  drain  may  be  of  glazed  vit 
rified  pipe   with  cemented  joints   to 
within  five  feet   of  the  outer  line  of 
the   house    foundation   walls.     From 
this  point  to  the  inside  it  shall  be  of 
cast-iron  pipe,  at  least  one-fourth  inch 
thick,  and  with  joints   well   caulked 
with   lead,  and  made  air  and  water- 
tight, 


170 

#.*A11  lines  of   soil  or  waste   pipes   in  a 
building  shall  be  of  heavy  iron. 

c.  The  house  drain  shall  be  trapped,  near 

the  point  where  it  leaves  the  building, 
by  a  running  or  half  S-trap,  which 
shall  not  be  larger  in  diameter  than 
the  house  drain.  This  trap  shall  be 
placed  in  an  accessible  position,  pro- 
tected against  freezing,  and  must  be 
provided  with  an  inspection  hole,  and 
a  tight  closing  cover.* 

d.  The  house  drain  shall  not  be  laid  be- 

neath the  cellar  floor  unless  absolute- 
ly necessary,  and  in  this  case  it  shall 
be  laid  in  a  trench  and  shall  be  sur- 
rounded with  concrete.  The  trench 
shall  be. filled  and  closed  after  the 

*  This  refers  to  connections  with  old  and  improperly  con- 
structed, or  foul  street  sewers,  and  to  cases  where  house 
drains  discharge  into  a  cesspool  or  flush  tank.  For  well- 
constructed,  self-cleansing  sewers,  provided  with  flushing 
arrangements  and  ample  ventilation,  the  trap  should  be 
omitted.  In  the  latter  instance  it  should  be  made  a  law 
that  in  every  house  connected  with  the  street  sewer  there 
shall  be  an  uninterrupted  flow  of  air  passing  from  the 
sewer  up  the  house  drain  and  soil  pipe,  and  out  at  the  roof, 
or  vice  versa. 


171 

drain    is    thoroughly   inspected    and 
pronounced  perfectly  tight. 

e.  All  connections  in  horizontal  pipes  to 
be  made  with  Y  branches. 

/.  There  shall  be  a  fresh-air  inlet  pipe, 
entering  the  house  drain  just  inside 
of  the  main  trap,  of  a  diameter  of  not 
less  than  four  inches,  and  opening  at 
any  convenient  place  out  of  doors, 
approved  by  the  superintendent  or 
inspector.* 

g.  All  soil  and  waste  pipes  shall  be  run  in 
as  straight  a  manner  as  possible  up  to, 
and  at  least  five  feet  above,  the  main 
house  roof.  Soil  pipes  to  be  enlarged 
to  six  inches  and  waste  pipes  to  four 
inches  above  the  roof.  The  upper 
terminus  shall  not  be  located  too 
near  a  window,  ventilating  shaft,  or 
chimney  flue;  the  outlet  above  the 
roof  shall  not  be  capped  by  either  a 
return  bend,  ventilating  cap,  or  mova- 
ble ventilator. 


*  When  the  trap  is  not  required  the  fresh-air  inlet  should 
be  omitted. 


172 

h.  Extensions  of  soil  or  waste  pipes  shall 
not  be  constructed  of  sheet  metal  or 
earthenware,  and  no  soil,  waste  or 
vent  pipe  shall  stop  in  any  brick  or 
earthen  chimney  flue,  serving  as  a 
ventilator. 

L  No  soil  pipe  shall  be  larger  than  four 
inches^  and  no  waste  pipe  larger  than 
two  inches  inside  diameter  (their  ex- 
tensions above  the  roof  excepted.) 

k.  Before  the  fixtures  are  placed  in  con- 
nection with  the  pipe  system,  and  be- 
fore the  soil  pipe  and  iron  house  drain 
are  connected  with  the  outside  drain, 
the  outlet  of  the  house  drain  and  of 
all  its  branches  shall  be  closed  tight 
and  the  pipe  filled  with  water  to  its 
top,  and  every  joint  shall  be  carefully 
examined  for  leakage,  and  all  leaks 
shall  be  securely  closed  before  connec- 
tions are  made  with  said  pipe  system. 

L  All  soil  and  waste  pipes  shall  be  kept 
outside  of  walls  or  partitions,  and  the 
system  arranged  in  such  a  manner 
that  it  may  at  all  times  be  readily  ex- 
amined and  repaired. 


173 

m.  Every  fixture  in  the  house  shall  be 
separately  and  effectually  trapped  by 
a  seal-retaining  trap  placed  close  to 
the  fixture,  and  arranged  so  as  to  be 
safe  against  back-pressure,  self-siph- 
onage,  loss  of  seal  by  evaporation  or 
siphonage. 

n.  No  branch  waste  pipe  for  tubs,  sinks, 
basins,  to  be  larger  than  one  and  one- 
half  inch  diameter. 

o.  Connections  of  lead  pipes  with  iron  hub 
pipes  shall  in  all  cases  be  made  with 
heavy  brass  ferrules,  properly  soldered 
to  the  lead,  and  well  caulked  to  the 
iron  pipe. 

p.  Every  water  closet  shall  be  adequately 
flushed  with  water  from  a  special 
flushing  cistern  arranged  directly 
above  it,  except  that  where  a  cistern 
is  liable  to  freeze  other  methods  may 
be  permitted,  provided  that  thorough 
and  sufficient  flushing  is  secured. 
Every  water  closet  apartment  shall 
have  direct  means  of  ventilation  into 
the  open  air.  Pan  closets  shall  not 


174 

be  used  in  any  building.  The  outlets 
of  water  closets  shall  not  be  larger 
than  three  inches  in  diameter. 

q.  No  opening  shall  be  provided  in  the 
house  drain  for  the  purpose  of  re- 
ceiving the  surface  drainage  of  the 
cellar,  unless  special  permission  is 
previously  obtained. 

r.  All  rain  water  conductors  which  are 
carried  up  within  the  walls  of  a  build- 
ing shall  be  of  iron  pipe.  Connec- 
tions with  such  rain  water  pipes  along 
their  vertical  course  for  the  discharge 
of  sewage  or  waste  water  therein  will 
not  be  permitted.  Rain  water  con- 
ductors shall  be  trapped  if  they  open 
at  the  top  near  windows,  ventilating 
shafts  or  flues. 

s.  It  shall  be  unlawful  to  throw  or  deposit, 
or  cause  or  permit  to  be  thrown  or 
deposited,  in  any  vessel  or  receptacle 
connected  with  a  public  sewer,  any 
garbage,  hair,  ashes,  fruit  or  veget- 
ables, peelings,  or  kitchen  refuse  of 
any  kind,  rags,  cotton,  cinders,  or  any 


175 

other  matter  or  thing  whatsoever,  ex- 
cept faeces,  urine,  the  necessary  closet 
paper,  and  liquid  house  slops. 

t.  Waste  pipes  from  refrigerators  or  other 
receptacles  in  which  provisions  are 
stored,  shall  not  be  directly  con- 
nected with  a  drain,  soil  pipe,  or 
other  waste  or  sewer  pipes,  but  shall 
be  made  to  discharge  over  an  open 
tray,  provided  with  a  waste-pipe  and 
seal-retaining  trap. 

u.  Drip  pipes  from  safes,  under  any  kind 
of  plumbing  fixtures,  must  not  have 
any  connection  with  any  soil,  waste, 
or  drain  pipe. 

v.  Overflow  pipes  from  water  tanks  shall 
not  be  connected  to  any  soil,  waste, 
or  drain  pipe. 

w.  No  steam  exhaust  shall  be  directly  con- 
nected with  any  soil  or  waste  pipe,  or 
drain  communicating  with  a  street? 
sewer. 


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BOILEAU  (J.  T.).  A  New  and  Complete  Set  of 
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MOREING  (C.  A.),  and  NEAL  (THOMAS).  Tele- 
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MUNRO      (JOHN     C.      E.),      and      JAMIESON 

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e  Engineers.  Thirteenth  edition,  revised  and  enlarged. 

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MURPHY  (J.  G.,  M.  E.).  Practical  Mining.  A 
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shape  from  end  to  end;  and  showing  how  to  get  out 
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PL.ATTNER.  Manual  of  Qualitative  and  Quantitative 
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ceutical  Assays,  in  the  estimation  of  Impurities 
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SCHELIJEN  (Dr.  EL).  Magneto-Electric  and  Dynamo- 
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SEXTON  (A.  HUMBOLDT).    Fuel  and  Refractory 

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SHOCK  (WM.  H.).  Steam  Boilers:  Their  Design, 
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SCIENTIFIC   PUBLICATION.  35 

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Thompson. 

NO.  70.— MODERN  REPRODUCTIVE  GRAPHIC  PRO- 
CESSES. By  Lieut.  James  S.  Pettit,  U.S.A. 

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Measurements.  By  Arthur  Winslow. 

No.  78.- THE  STEAM-ENGINE  INDICATOR,  AND  ITS 
USE.  By  W.  B.  Le  Van. 

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'STRUCTION        OF       HELICOIDAL       OBLIQUE 

ARCHES.    By  John  L.  Culley,  C.  E. 
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their  Resistance.    By  P.  H.  Philbrick. 
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PROPERTIES,      AND     ANALYSIS.       By      Lieut. 

John  P.  Wisser,  U.  S.  A. 

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Plumbing   Work.      Second   edition,    revised.      By 

William  Paul  Gerhard,  C.  E. 
No.   94. -THE  TREATMENT  OF  SEWAGE.    By  Dr.  C.  Mey 

mott  Tvdy. 
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C.  E.    2d  edition,  revised  and  enlarged. 
No.    96.— ALTERNATE    CURRENT    MACHINERY.      By    Gis- 

bert  Kapp,  Assoc.  M.  Inst.,  C.  E. 
No.  97.—  THE   DISPOSAL    OF   HOUSEHOLD  WASTES.    By 

W.  Paul  Gerhard,  Sanitary  Engineer. 
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HOW  TO  WIND  FOR  ANY  OUTPUT.    By  Frederick 

Walker.    Fully  illustrated. 
No.    99-TRIPLE  -  EXPANSION    ENGINES    AND    ENGINE 

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Geo.  W.  Plympton. 

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adjustment  and  use.  By  F.  R.  Brainard,  U.  & 
Navy. 

No.  102.— THE  GALVANIC  CIRCUIT  INVESTIGATED 
MATHEMATICALLY.  By  Dr.  G.  S.  Ohm,  Ber- 
lin, 1827.  Translated  by  William  Francis.  With 
Preface  and  Notes  by  the  Editor,  Thomas  D. 
Lockwood,  M.I.E.E. 

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W.  Rafter. 

No.  104.-VAN  NOSTRAND'S  fTABLE  BOOK  FOR  CIVIL 
AND  MECHANICAL  ENGINEERS.  Compiled 
by  Prof.  Geo.  W.  Plympton, 

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of,  with  Examples  and  Applications.  By  Prof. 
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Transmission  of  Power  by  Compressed  Air  in 
Paris.  (Popp's  System.)  By  Prof.  A.  B.  W. 
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Power  from  Central  Stations  by  Compressed  Air. 
By  Prof.  W.  C.  Unwin. 

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A  Rational  and  Easy  Graphical  Analysis  of  the 
Stresses  in  Ordinary  Swing-Bridges.  With  an 
Introduction  on  the  General  Theory  of  Graphical 
Statics.  By  Benjamin  F.  La  Rue.  4  Plates. 

No.  108.-SLIDE  VALVE  DIAGRAMS.  A  French  Method 
for  Constructing  Slide  Valve  Diagrams.  By  Lloyd 
Bankson,  B.S.,  Assistant  Naval  Constructor,  U. 
S.  Navy.  8  Folding  Plates. 

No.  109.— THE  MEASUREMENT  OF  ELECTRIC  CUR- 
RENTS. Electrical  Measuring  Instruments.  By 
James  Swinburne.  Meters  for  Electrical  Energy. 
By  C.  H.  Wordingham.  Edited,  with  Preface, 
by  T.  Commerford  Martin.  Folding  Plate  and 
numerous  illustrations. 

No.  110.— TRANSITION  CURVES.  A  Field-Book  for  Engin- 
eers, containing  Rules  and  Tables  for  Laying 
out  Transition  Curves.  By  Walter  G.  Fox,  C.E. 

No.  111.— GAS-LIGHTING  AND  GAS-FITTING.  Specifica- 
tions and  Rules  for  Gas-Piping.  Notes  on  the 
advantages  of  Gas  for  Cooking  and  Heating,  and 
Useful  Hints  to  Gas  Consumers,  Second  edition- 
rewritten  and  enlarged.  By  Win.  Paul  Gerhard, 
C.  E. 

No.  112.— A  PRIMER  ON  THE  CALCULUS.  By  B.  Sherman 
Gould,  M.  Am.  Soc.  C.  E. 


YAJ\  JSVi$TRAJ\l}  fSUllffNUJS 


No.  113.—  PHYSICAL  PROBLEMS  and  their  Solution.     By  A. 

Bourgougnon,  formerly  Assistant  at  Belle  vue  Hos- 

pital. 
No.  114.—  MANUAL  OF  THE  SLIDE  RULE.    By  F.  A.  Halsey, 

of  the  American  Machinist. 
No.  115.—  TRAVERSE  TABLES  showing  the  difference  of  Lati- 

tude and  Departure  for  distances  between  1  and  100 

and  for  Angles  to  Quarter  Degrees  between  1  degree 

and  90  degrees.    (Reprinted  from  Scribner's  Pocket 

Table  Book.) 
No.  116.—  WORM  AND  SPIRAL  GEARING.       Reprinted  from 

'•  American  Machinist."    By  F.  A.  Halsey. 
No.  117.—  PRACTICAL    HYDROSTATICS    AND   FORMULAS' 

with  Diagrams  and  Illustrations.    By  E.  Sherman 

Gould,  Mem.  A.  S.  C.  E. 
No.  118.—  TREATMENT   OF  SEPTIC   SEWAGE,  with  Tables. 

By  George  W.  Rafter,  Mem.  A.  S.  C.  E. 
No.  119.—  LAY-OUT  OF  CORLISS  VALVE  GEARS  with  Fold- 

ing Plates  and  Diagrams.    By  Sanford  A.  Moss,  M. 

S.,  Ph.  D. 
No.  120.—  ART  OF  GENERATING  GEAR  TEETH.    By  Howard 

A.  Coombs.     With  Figures,  Diagrams  and  Folding 

Plates.    Reprinted  from  the  "American  Machinist.  '  ' 
No.  121.—  CURRENT  PRACTICE  IN  GAS  ENGINE  DESIGN. 

By  H.  Lee  Koenig  and  G.  W.  Rice,   with  Folding 

Plates. 


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Assistant  Engineer  U.  S.  Navy,  Professor  of  Mechanical 
Engineering,  Purdue  University.  La  Fayette,  Ind.,  etc. 
Fourth  Edition.  I2mo,  cloth,  illustrated  .  .  .  $2.00. 

Elements  of  Mechanics, 

Including  Kinematics,  Kinetics  and  Statics.  With  appli- 
cations. By  Professor  T.  W.  WRIGHT,  of  Union  College. 
Third  Edition,  revised.  8 vo.  cloth,  illustrated  .  $2.50. 

Bowser's  Analytic  Mechanics. 

An  Elementary  Treatise  on  Analytic  Mechanics. 
With  numerous  examples.  By  EDW.  A.  BOWSER, 
LL.D.  I2th  Edition.  I2mo,  cloth  .....  $3.00. 

Elementary  Mechanics,  including  Hydrostatics 
and  Pneumatics. 

By  Professor  OLIVER  J.  LODGE.  Revised  Edition. 
I2mo,  cloth,  illustrated $1.50. 

Applied  Mechanics. 

A  Treatise  for  the  Use  of  Students  who  have  time  to 
Work  Experimental,  Numerical,  and  Graphical  Exer- 
cises, Illustrating  the  Subject.  By  JOHN  PERRY,  M.E., 
D.Sc.,  F.R.S.  8vo,  cloth $2.50. 


